BIOTHERM

BIOTHERM Waterlover Hydrating Sun Milk SPF30+ Eco-Conscious Tube

Name: BIOTHERM - Waterlover Hydrating Sun Milk SPF30+ Eco-Conscious Tube
Brand: BIOTHERM

SPF 30Efficacy90/100IrritancyMedium·5 UV filters

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Sun protection

SPF 30 · 5 UV filters

Broad spectrum

SPF 30Broad spectrumChemical filtersNo white cast

This product offers a good level of protection against both UVB and UVA rays.

This sunscreen uses organic (so-called "chemical") sunscreen filters. Organic, or "chemical" filters usually provide reliable sun protection and rarely leave a white cast. Sunscreens with organic filters can sting eyes.

This product can be considered "reef safe" because it does not contain the UV filters (oxybenzone and octinoxate) that can be harmful to coral reefs when present in the water in high concentrations.

UV spectrum

UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm

Octisalate

Uvinul T

Mexoryl Xl

Tinosorb S

Avobenzone

FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount

OctisalateEthylhexyl SalicylateUVBOctisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen~3.2–3.9%

Uvinul TEthylhexyl TriazoneUVB Photo-stable Uvinul T. A UV filter. Effective against UVB rays. It is photostable. Can increase water resistance properties of the sunscreen. Unfortunately, not approved by the FDA (US) yet~1.7–2%

Mexoryl XlDrometrizole TrisiloxaneUVBUVA2 Photo-stable Mexoryl XL. A UV filter. Effective in the UVB and UVA range. It is stable. Unfortunately, not approved in the US yet~0.45–0.65%

Tinosorb SBis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl TriazineUVBUVA Photo-stable Tinosorb S. One of the most effective broad spectrum sunscreen ingredients. Protects from both UVA and UVB rays. It is photostable. Unfortunately, not approved by FDA (US) yet.~4.4–5.4%

AvobenzoneButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneUVA1Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.~2.1–2.6%

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Reef-safe

No oxybenzone or octinoxate — the two filters banned in Hawaii, Florida Keys and Aruba.

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help prevent early signs of skin aging because it offers a good level of broad spectrum sun protection. Sun damage is the main cause of premature skin aging, and protecting your skin from the sun is the best anti-aging strategy.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.25–0.5%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.2–0.35%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · No ingredient credited for this claim

Strong support

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection. It means that it can prevent hyperpigmentation and help keep the skin tone even (sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations).

Moisturizing

Not advertised by the brand · 11 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, caprylyl glycol.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–5.6%

Diisopropyl sebacateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin without creatng a greasy finish~0.5–0.8%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~2–2.4%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%

Isopropyl palmitate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~3.1–3.7%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.35–0.65%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.45–0.7%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.25–0.5%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.65–0.95%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Parfum

Medium risk

We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~1.4–1.7%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.55–0.8%est.

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazineTinosorb S. One of the most effective broad spectrum sunscreen ingredients. Protects from both UVA and UVB rays. It is photostable. Unfortunately, not approved by FDA (US) yet.Medium~4.4–5.4%est.

Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistencyMedium~3.1–3.7%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~2–2.4%est.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~2.1–2.6%est.

Ethylhexyl triazoneUvinul T. A UV filter. Effective against UVB rays. It is photostable. Can increase water resistance properties of the sunscreen. Unfortunately, not approved by the FDA (US) yetMedium~1.7–2%est.

Zea mays starchUsed to thicken the product's consistencyMedium~0.95–1.15%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.7–1%est.

TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Drometrizole trisiloxaneMexoryl XL. A UV filter. Effective in the UVB and UVA range. It is stable. Unfortunately, not approved in the US yetMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateUsed to improve stability of the formulationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Isopropyl palmitateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency3/5~3.1–3.7%est.

Zea mays starchUsed to thicken the product's consistency3/5~0.95–1.15%est.

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.25–0.5%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.6–5.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine~4.4–5.4%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Tinosorb S. One of the most effective broad spectrum sunscreen ingredients. Protects from both UVA and UVB rays. It is photostable. Unfortunately, not approved by FDA (US) yet.

More about Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine

Isopropyl palmitate~3.1–3.7%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Isopropyl palmitate

Ethylhexyl salicylate~3.2–3.9%

UV filter

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate

Pentylene glycol~2–2.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~2.1–2.6%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

Alcohol denat.~1.4–1.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.

Ethylhexyl triazone~1.7–2%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Uvinul T. A UV filter. Effective against UVB rays. It is photostable. Can increase water resistance properties of the sunscreen. Unfortunately, not approved by the FDA (US) yet

More about Ethylhexyl triazone

Zea mays starch~0.95–1.15%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Mattifying

Used to thicken the product's consistency

More about Zea mays starch

Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.7–1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Parfum~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Diisopropyl sebacate~0.5–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin without creatng a greasy finish

More about Diisopropyl sebacate

Oryza sativa cera~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Oryza sativa cera

Oryza sativa bran wax~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Oryza sativa bran wax

Stearic acid~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Palmitic acid~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Peg-100 stearate~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate

Glyceryl stearate~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Triethanolamine~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine

Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Drometrizole trisiloxane~0.45–0.65%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Mexoryl XL. A UV filter. Effective in the UVB and UVA range. It is stable. Unfortunately, not approved in the US yet

More about Drometrizole trisiloxane

Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to improve stability of the formulation

More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate

Tocopherol~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

Myristic acid~0.3–0.55%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid

Vitreoscilla ferment~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Vitreoscilla ferment

Citric acid~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

(f.i.l.c265750/1)

Not recognized

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Isopropyl palmitate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Pentylene glycol, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Alcohol denat., Ethylhexyl triazone, Zea mays starch, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Parfum, Diisopropyl sebacate, Oryza sativa cera, Oryza sativa bran wax, Stearic acid, Palmitic acid, Peg-100 stearate, Glyceryl stearate, Triethanolamine, Caprylyl glycol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Drometrizole trisiloxane, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Tocopherol, Xanthan gum, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Myristic acid, Vitreoscilla ferment, Citric acid, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Unknown

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Product summary

We assess that "BIOTHERM - Waterlover Hydrating Sun Milk SPF30+ Eco-Conscious Tube" can provide reliable sun protection based on the ingredient list. We love that it can protect from both UVA and UVB rays (not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging).

It contains good moisturizing ingredients and can double as a hydrating day cream. Like all broad-spectrum sunscreens, this product helps prevent early signs of aging.

Sunscreen filters

This is a so-called "chemical" sunscreen. It means that it uses organic UV filters. They typically offer good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for some people with sensitive skin. These are the sun protection ingredients in this sunscreen: tinosorb s 4.40% - 5.40%, avobenzone 2.10% - 2.60%, mexoryl xl 0.45% - 0.65%, octisalate 3.20% - 3.90% and uvinul t 1.70% - 2.00%.

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this sunscreen to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 18.64£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 5 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Isopropyl Isostearatejournals.sagepub.com
3
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
5
The fatty acid profile of the skin surface lipid layer in papulopustular rosaceancbi.nlm.nih.gov

BIOTHERMWaterlover Hydrating Sun Milk SPF30+ Eco-Conscious Tube

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