Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 5
Key actives
Product Summary
"BIOTHERM - BLUE THERAPY CREAM-IN-OIL" has a good moisturizing formula. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Algae extract, glycerin, saccharide isomerate, honey and mel in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide 3, algae extract, glycine soja oil, isocetyl stearate and ribes nigrum seed oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide 3 0.25% - 0.50%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
- Adenosine 0.20% - 0.35% in this moisturizer adds an anti-aging benefit. Adenosine is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical adenosine in low concentrations can help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Irritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 96.00CA$ in Canada.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Works for
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Skin feels deeply moisturized, firmer, fine lines and wrinkles appear reduced.
Source: Biotherm CA
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Skin feels deeply moisturized, firmer, fine lines and wrinkles appear reduced.
Source: Biotherm CA
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
algae extract, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide 3, hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Helps attract water to the skin and might have some anti-bacterial properties. Can be an allergen
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and attract water to it
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Help soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it
Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Helps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating
A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (haematococcus pluvialis extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
Green algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthin
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 BIOTHERM BLUE THERAPY CREAM-IN-OIL | Current | $96.00 | |
Lancôme Visionnaire Nuit Beauty Sleep Perfector Advanced Multi-Correcting Gel-In-Oil | 65% | - | |
COSRX Honey Ceramide Full Moisture Cream | 49% | $28.00 | |
 Algenist GENIUS Ultimate Anti-Aging Emulsion | 48% | - | |
 Vichy Idealia Skin Sleep Night Cream | 48% | $30.00 | |
 the SKIN HOUSE Wrinkle Collagen Cream | 48% | $14.90 |
Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Glycine soja oil, Dimethicone, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Alcohol denat., Isocetyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, Pentylene glycol, Polyglyceryl-2 stearate, Stearyl heptanoate, Peg-8 stearate, Algae extract, Rosmarinus officinalis extract, Mel, Honey, Steareth-100/peg-136/hdi copolymer, Stearic acid, Stearyl alcohol, Stearyl caprylate, Ceramide 3, Rosa canina fruit oil, Saccharide isomerate, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Triethanolamine, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Myristic acid, Myristyl alcohol, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, Haematococcus pluvialis extract, Palmitic acid, Adenosine, Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Disodium stearoyl glutamate, Hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine, Caprylic/capric glycerides, Caprylyl glycol, Vitreoscilla ferment, T-butyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Bht, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol, Ci 14700, Ci 19140, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Citral, Citronellol, Benzyl alcohol, Parfum
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of PEG Diesters as Used in Cosmetics
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- The fatty acid profile of the skin surface lipid layer in papulopustular rosacea
- Cosmetic allergy from myristyl alcohol
- Contact Sensitization to Emulsifying Agents: An Underrated Issue?
- Patch testing with myristyl alcohol
- Safety Assessment of Ceramides as Used in Cosmetics
- Effective Inhibition of Skin Cancer, Tyrosinase, and Antioxidative Properties by Astaxanthin and Astaxanthin Esters from the Green Alga Haematococcus pluvialis
- Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of Toxicity and Efficacy of A New Astaxanthin-rich Haematococcus pluvialis Extract
- Astaxanthin in Skin Health, Repair, and Disease: A Comprehensive Review
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Safety Assessment of Acryloyldimethyltaurate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics
- Acceptability and Efficacy of an Emollient Containing Ceramide-Precursor Lipids and Moisturizing Factors for Atopic Dermatitis in Pediatric Patients
- Emollient treatment of atopic dermatitis: latest evidence and clinical considerations
- Amended final report of the safety assessment of t-Butyl Alcohol as used in cosmetics
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmetics
- Analysis of Dyes in Cosmetics: Challenges and Recent Developments
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts