Avène Akérat Smoothing Exfoliating Cream

Avène Akérat Smoothing Exfoliating Cream

Efficacy66/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

2 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Evens skin tone
Niacinamide, Zinc gluconate
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“The powerful formula works to alleviate irritated skin immediately whilst also working continuously to leave you with a soft, smooth and even skin tone.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2.5%
Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.05–0.1%
Moisturizing
Niacinamide, Glycerin + 3 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“This gently moisturizing cream turns unsightly patches of problem skin into uniform, elegant areas.”
Source: Dermstore

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: jojoba esters, pentylene glycol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.8–7.3%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.35–0.8%
NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2.5%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~4.1–6.2%
Zinc gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.05–0.1%
Exfoliation
Zinc gluconate
Weak evidence
What the product description says
“Akérat Smoothing Exfoliating Cream”
Source: Avene USA

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.05–0.1%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Sodium salicylate + 1 more
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2.5%
Sodium salicylateEffect: LowThe salt of salicylic acid. Helps exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. Can also work to preserve cosmetic products~0.1–0.4%
Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.05–0.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Coco-glucosideUsed as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritatingHigh~1.5–2.3%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.5–1.15%est.
Glyceryl oleateHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–1.1%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~4.1–6.2%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~2.9–4.3%est.
Cetrimonium bromideHelps oil and water mix together. Also helps to preserve productsMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.85–1.3%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.7%est.
Sodium salicylateThe salt of salicylic acid. Helps exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. Can also work to preserve cosmetic productsMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateUsed to improve stability of the formulationMedium~0.01–0.1%est.
Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.8–7.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Pentylene glycol~4.1–6.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~2.9–4.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Water~2.1–3.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Niacinamide~1.6–2.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Coco-glucoside~1.5–2.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Used as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritating

More about Coco-glucoside
Cellulase~1.3–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cellulase
Cetrimonium bromide~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Also helps to preserve products

More about Cetrimonium bromide
Citric acid~0.85–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Parfum~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Glyceryl oleate~0.45–1.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Glyceryl oleate
Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides citrate~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides citrate
Jojoba esters~0.35–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Polysorbate 60~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Red 30 (ci 73360)
Not recognized
Sodium salicylate~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-aging

The salt of salicylic acid. Helps exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. Can also work to preserve cosmetic products

More about Sodium salicylate
Sorbitan isostearate~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Talc~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Absorbs oil and moisture helping to create a dryer product finish

More about Talc
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve stability of the formulation

More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate
Zinc gluconate~0.05–0.1%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationExfoliationAnti-blemish

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Pentylene glycol, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Water, Niacinamide, Coco-glucoside, Cellulase, Cetrimonium bromide, Citric acid, Parfum, Glyceryl oleate, Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides citrate, Jojoba esters, Polysorbate 60, Unknown, Sodium salicylate, Sorbitan isostearate, Talc, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Zinc gluconate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
AvèneAkérat Smoothing Exfoliating CreamYOUR PRODUCTBiossanceSqualane and Caffeine Toning Body Cream - UnscentedBepanthenDerma Body Nutritive CreamMercurochromeNourishing Hand Cream Very Dry and Chapped Hands
Match—93%93%90%
Price$20.72$23.06+$2.34$14.84−$5.88$6.95−$13.77
Shared key ingredients—3 of 33 of 33 of 3
Key difference—CaffeinePanthenolPanthenol
Irritancy Medium Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Avène - Akérat Smoothing Exfoliating Cream" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Avène - Akérat Smoothing Exfoliating Cream ticks this box. Urea and lactic acid in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (paraffinum liquidum and prunus amygdalus dulcis oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 32.00$ in the United States and for 15.50£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 13 studies and safety reviews.

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Avène Akérat Smoothing Exfoliating Cream
AvèneAkérat Smoothing Exfoliating Cream

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.