Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Exfoliation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Key actives
Product Summary
Judging from the ingredient list, "Avène - Akérat Smoothing Exfoliating Cream" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Avène - Akérat Smoothing Exfoliating Cream ticks this box. Urea and lactic acid in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (paraffinum liquidum and prunus amygdalus dulcis oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Irritation risk
There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 32.00$ in the United States and for 15.50£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
The salt of salicylic acid. Helps exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. Can also work to preserve cosmetic products
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
The powerful formula works to alleviate irritated skin immediately whilst also working continuously to leave you with a soft, smooth and even skin tone.
Source: Lookfantastic
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
This gently moisturizing cream turns unsightly patches of problem skin into uniform, elegant areas.
Source: Dermstore
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: jojoba esters, pentylene glycol.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
Akérat Smoothing Exfoliating Cream
Source: Avene USA
This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Exfoliation |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 66/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
No comedogenic ingredients detected
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Avène Akérat Smoothing Exfoliating Cream | Current | $15.50 | |
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Key Actives
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
Potential irritants
Used as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritating
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish
Helps oil and water mix together. Also helps to preserve products
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
The salt of salicylic acid. Helps exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. Can also work to preserve cosmetic products
Used to improve stability of the formulation
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Comedogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comedogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Used as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritating
Helps oil and water mix together. Also helps to preserve products
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function
The salt of salicylic acid. Helps exfoliate the upper layer of the skin. Can also work to preserve cosmetic products
Used to improve stability of the formulation
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Pentylene glycol, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Water, Niacinamide, Coco-glucoside, Cellulase, Cetrimonium bromide, Citric acid, Parfum, Glyceryl oleate, Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides citrate, Jojoba esters, Polysorbate 60, Unknown, Sodium salicylate, Sorbitan isostearate, Talc, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Zinc gluconate
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Response
- Allergen of the Year—Alkyl Glucoside
- Contact Sensitization to Emulsifying Agents: An Underrated Issue?
- Three clinical studies showing the anti-aging benefits of sodium salicylate in human skin
- Zinc salts in dermatology
- An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disorders
- Zinc, copper and manganese enhanced keratinocyte migration through a functional modulation of keratinocyte integrins
- Evaluation of the effects of topical zinc gluconate in wound healing
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity