Works for
Anti-agingPalmitoyl tripeptide-5, Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate + 2 moreMay help
“With a high-strength vitamin C derivative and skin-supportive peptides, Extreme C 20 targets dullness, uneven tone, and visible ageing.”
This product contains dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, palmitoyl tripeptide-5. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
Evens skin toneAscorbyl tetraisopalmitate ~2.5–3.7% + 1 moreUnder-dosed
“With a high-strength vitamin C derivative and skin-supportive peptides, Extreme C 20 targets dullness, uneven tone, and visible ageing.”
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low
MoisturizingSide benefit · Panthenol, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 + 6 moreWorks well
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: oryza sativa bran oil, lecithin.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, panthenol
Anti-oxidationSide benefit · Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Tocopheryl acetate + 3 moreMay help
This product contains antioxidants (epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy5 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Citrus reticulata peel oil + 3 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
ComedogenicClean of flagged comedogenic ingredientsNone flagged
User reviews
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Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~40–60%
Glycerin~5–7.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinPanthenol~3.5–5.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
More about PanthenolAscorbyl tetraisopalmitate~2.5–3.7%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateTocopheryl acetate~1.8–2.8%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
More about Tocopheryl acetateLecithin~1.5–2.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
More about LecithinOryza sativa bran oil~1.3–2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
More about Oryza sativa bran oilPhenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
More about PhenoxyethanolCitrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.9–1.35%
- Irritation risk
- High
An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating
More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilPullulan~0.6–1.4%
- Irritation risk
- High
Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect
More about PullulanCitrus reticulata peel oil~0.4–0.95%
- Irritation risk
- High
An essential oil used for fragrance. Can be an allergen and irritant
More about Citrus reticulata peel oilEpilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract~0.35–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant extract that might contain antioxidants
More about Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractNannochloropsis oculata extract~0.2–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A microalgae extract that helps to attact water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Nannochloropsis oculata extractPalmitoyl tripeptide-5~0.15–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-5Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract~0.15–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lacking
More about Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extractBackhousia citriodora leaf extract~0.15–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant extract used mostly as a fragrance. Can have some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties
More about Backhousia citriodora leaf extractTasmannia lanceolata fruit extract~0.15–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- High
Citrus glauca fruit extract~0.15–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- High
Davidsonia jerseyana fruit extract~0.1–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate~0.1–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetateCitrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.1–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- High
Lactic acid~0.1–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
More about Lactic acidXanthan gum~0.1–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a thicker product consistency
More about Xanthan gumSclerotium gum~0.1–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions
More about Sclerotium gumPotassium sorbate~0.05–0.25%
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.1–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps oil and water mix together
More about Sodium stearoyl glutamateTetrasodium edta~0.05–0.2%
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.1%
Benzoic acid~0.05–0.2%
Sorbic acid~0.05–0.25%
Sodium metabisulfite~0.05–0.2%
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Panthenol, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Lecithin, Oryza sativa bran oil, Phenoxyethanol, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Pullulan, Citrus reticulata peel oil, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Nannochloropsis oculata extract, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, Backhousia citriodora leaf extract, Tasmannia lanceolata fruit extract, Citrus glauca fruit extract, Davidsonia jerseyana fruit extract, Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Lactic acid, Xanthan gum, Sclerotium gum, Potassium sorbate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Tetrasodium edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzoic acid, Sorbic acid, Sodium metabisulfite
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| Aspect DoctorExtreme C 20YOUR PRODUCT | Luzern LaboratoriesLuzern WE3 Triple Action Serum Wrinkle Corrector | AbibCopper Peptide Serum Bouncing Drop – GHK-Cu, Argireline & Matrixyl Anti-Aging Face Serum | Wrinkle Care, Plumping & Firming Korean Skincare | Farm StayBlack Snail & Peptide9 Perfect Serum | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 55% | 55% | 55% |
| Price | — | — | $35.00 | $20.50 |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 4 of 8 | 4 of 8 | 4 of 8 |
| Key difference | — | Niacinamide | Tripeptide-1 | Oligopeptide-32 |
| Irritancy | High | Low | Medium | Medium |
| Drying alcohol | — | — | — | — |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
More alternatives: Image skincare IMAGE MD restoring youth repair serumNEOGEN X SUR.MEDIC AGECURE ONE MINUTE WRINKLE PERFECTION
Product summary
Based on the ingredient list, "Aspect Doctor - Extreme C 20" can work well for skin moisturization. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Panthenol and glycerin in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Oryza sativa bran oil and lecithin in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate 0.10% - 0.45% and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.15% - 0.70%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
- This formulation also uses an effective concentration of panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 3.50% - 5.30%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 108.80A$ in Australia.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
- 3
- 4
- 5
- 6
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