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Archipelago Botanicals Charcoal Rose Hand Cr?me
Archipelago Botanicals

Archipelago Botanicals Charcoal Rose Hand Cr?me

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Jojoba esters, Rosa canina seed oil + 11 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“A Modern & Enchanting Rose Blend With its enticing fragrance blend of subtle charcoal and fresh rose, Archipelago Botanicals Charcoal Rose Hand Cr?me glides on smoothly leaving the skin feeling hydrated and soft.”
Source: SmallFlower

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~4.5–5.5%
Rosa canina seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishes~0.25–0.5%
Cocos nucifera fruit extractKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~2.4–3%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.6–2%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.1–2.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~3.3–4%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.6%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.1–1.3%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~7.3–9%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1.8–2.2%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.75–1.1%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~0.15–0.3%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.15–0.25%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Vitis vinifera seed extract, Rosa canina fruit extract + 5 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (vitis vinifera seed extract) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Vitis vinifera seed extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.65–1%
Rosa canina fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence is lacking~1.1–1.4%
Rosa canina seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishes~0.25–0.5%
Calendula officinalis flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating~0.1–0.15%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.15–0.25%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.4–0.65%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~0.15–0.3%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Vitis vinifera seed extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Moderate evidence

This product contains vitis vinifera seed extract. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Vitis vinifera seed extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.65–1%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.15–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Parfum, Rosa damascena flower water + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~4.5–5.5%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~3.3–4%est.
Rosa canina fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence is lackingMedium~1.1–1.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–0.65%est.
Rosa canina seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishesMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cocos nucifera fruit extractAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~2.4–3%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.1–1.3%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cyclopentasiloxane~7.3–9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Jojoba esters~4.5–5.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~3.3–4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cocos nucifera fruit extract~2.4–3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera fruit extract
Esters
Not recognized
Glycerin~2.1–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Stearic acid~1.8–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Dimethicone~1.6–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Rosa canina fruit extract~1.1–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence is lacking

More about Rosa canina fruit extract
Cetearyl alcohol~1.1–1.3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Vitis vinifera seed extract~0.65–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAntibacterial

A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation

More about Vitis vinifera seed extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Carbomer~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Essential oil
Not recognized
Parfum~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosa canina seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishes

More about Rosa canina seed oil
Charcoal extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Charcoal extract
Rosa damascena flower water~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Ingredient list view

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Jojoba esters, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cocos nucifera fruit extract, Unknown, Glycerin, Stearic acid, Dimethicone, Rosa canina fruit extract, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Vitis vinifera seed extract, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Tocopheryl acetate, Unknown, Parfum, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosa canina seed oil, Charcoal extract, Rosa damascena flower water, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 18 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  3. 3
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  4. 4
    Safety Assessment of Vitis Vinifera (Grape)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics cir-safety.org
  5. 5
    The Topical Effect of Grape Seed Extract 2% Cream on Surgery Wound Healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Review of the Pharmacological Effects of Vitis vinifera (Grape) and its Bioactive Constituents: An Updatecore.ac.uk
Archipelago Botanicals Charcoal Rose Hand Cr?me
Archipelago BotanicalsCharcoal Rose Hand Cr?me
Buy at SmallFlower$19.50Amazon

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Buy at SmallFlower$19.50Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.