A'PIEU Madecassoside Cica Balm

A'PIEU Madecassoside Cica Balm

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Containing 2% madecassoside from centella, this balm soothes irritated skin while offering hydration and protection against harmful environmental stressors.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, carthamus tinctorius seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, niacinamide, panthenol

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–5.7%
MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~1.2–1.8%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.3–0.75%
NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1–1.6%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.7%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.1–0.45%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.6–6.9%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.15–0.6%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.75%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2.1–3.1%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.95–1.4%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.55%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.55–1.3%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.75%
Myristyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating~0.15–0.6%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.05–0.2%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.2–0.75%
Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Can be used as an eye cream to reduce wrinkles; on nail cuticles, elbows and heels for hydration; as a lip balm; and on hair to smooth split ends.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, centella asiatica extract, madecassoside.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1–1.6%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.8%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~1.2–1.8%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.7%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.75%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1–1.6%
MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~1.2–1.8%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - centella asiatica extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~1.2–1.8%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.7%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.75%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.8%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.15–0.6%
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilEffect: LowAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation~0.15–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
5 strong irritants: Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Lavandula hybrida oil + 3 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oilAn essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Lavandula hybrida oilPlant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergenHigh~0.2–0.7%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Myristyl alcoholHelps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Coptis japonica extract—High~0.1–0.35%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.6–6.9%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~2.3–3.5%est.
MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~1.2–1.8%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.2–0.75%est.
AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.7%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.95–1.4%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Centella asiatica leaf water~23–34%
Formula
Glycerin~3.8–5.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.6–6.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
1,2-hexanediol~2.3–3.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Dipropylene glycol~2.5–3.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Cetyl alcohol~2.1–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Cetearyl olivate~1.5–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Madecassoside~1.2–1.8%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside
Niacinamide~1–1.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Cetearyl alcohol~0.95–1.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Isohexadecane~0.55–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Sucrose stearate~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sucrose stearate
Centella asiatica extract~0.2–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Panthenol~0.3–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Adenosine~0.2–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Asiaticoside~0.2–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside
Butylene glycol~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil
Lavandula hybrida oil~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Plant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergen

More about Lavandula hybrida oil
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil
Carbomer~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Stearyl alcohol~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol
Betaine~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Stearic acid~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Myristyl alcohol~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating

More about Myristyl alcohol
Lauryl alcohol~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Lauryl alcohol
Allantoin~0.05–0.2%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Tromethamine~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Coptis japonica extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Tropolone~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tropolone
Disodium edta~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ingredient list view

Centella asiatica leaf water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1,2-hexanediol, Dipropylene glycol, Cetyl alcohol, Cetearyl olivate, Madecassoside, Niacinamide, Cetearyl alcohol, Isohexadecane, Sucrose stearate, Centella asiatica extract, Panthenol, Adenosine, Asiaticoside, Butylene glycol, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Lavandula hybrida oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Carbomer, Stearyl alcohol, Betaine, Stearic acid, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Caprylyl glycol, Myristyl alcohol, Lauryl alcohol, Allantoin, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Coptis japonica extract, Tropolone, Disodium edta

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
A'PIEUMadecassoside Cica BalmYOUR PRODUCTAHCPremier Ampole In Eye CreamVT CosmeticsCica Collagen Eye Cream 15mlCLIVMulti Hyaluronic Hydrating Eye Cream
Match—91%87%86%
Price$9.00$32.39+$23.39$26.37+$17.37$19.69+$10.69
Shared key ingredients—7 of 108 of 107 of 10
Key difference—Ceramide NpMadecassic AcidOligopeptide-32
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "A'PIEU - Madecassoside Cica Balm" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. A'PIEU - Madecassoside Cica Balm ticks this box. Panthenol, betaine, glycerin, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (carthamus tinctorius seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and caprylyl glycol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • Adenosine 0.20% - 0.80% in this moisturizer adds an anti-aging benefit. Adenosine is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical adenosine in low concentrations can help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
  • This formulation also includes actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (its other name is Gotu Kola): madecassoside 1.20% - 1.80% and asiaticoside 0.20% - 0.70% The Centella Asiatica actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 11.40$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 29 studies and safety reviews.

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A'PIEU Madecassoside Cica Balm
A'PIEUMadecassoside Cica Balm

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