Allies of Skin

Allies of Skin Multi Nutrient & Dioic Renewing Cream

Name: Allies of Skin - Multi Nutrient & Dioic Renewing Cream
Brand: Allies of Skin

Efficacy81/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

3 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

30 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Discover Allies of Skin's Peptides & Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment, as concentrated as a mask, delivered in the form of a daily moisturizer.”

Source: Dermstore

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dextran, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, sphingolipids.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tripeptide-8

Saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea fermentKey activeEffect: HighA fermented sweet black tea. There is no studies on particular benefits of this ingredient in skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, and might have some anti-oxidant effect. It is used in skincare for mostly marketing purposes because of the popularity of kombucha drinks~0.3–0.6%

Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.2–0.4%

GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonineHeroEffect: High~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-8HeroEffect: High~0.2–0.4%

SphingolipidsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighSphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides~0.25–0.45%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.1–3.8%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.7–7%

Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.3–0.6%

DextranKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar~0.2–0.4%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.35–0.6%

MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.4%

HoneyKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the skin and might have some anti-bacterial properties. Can be an allergen~0.25–0.45%

C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~2.4–2.9%

Dunaliella salina extractKey activeEffect: MediumA green micro-algae extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid evidence is lacking. It helps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Polyglyceryl-10 oleateKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.65–0.95%

PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.25–0.45%

Epigallocatechin gallateEffect: LowA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.2–0.4%

Dextrin· HumectantEffect: LowA sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.4%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.2%

BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.2–0.4%

Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~4.3–5.2%

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.6%

AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.35%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.4%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Evens skin tone

7 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“5% Teprenone & Ferulic Complex: A powerful combination that can effectively brighten the appearance of excess pigmentation, hydrate, refine the look of pores, and reduce loss of firmness.”

Source: Dermstore

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glutathione

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: epigallocatechin gallate, ferulic acid, tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Epigallocatechin gallateKey activeEffect: MediumA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.2–0.4%

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.3–0.6%

TetrahydrodiferuloylmethaneEffect: LowAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.25–0.4%

TetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethaneEffect: LowAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.2–0.4%

TetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethaneEffect: LowAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.2–0.4%

Anti-aging

14 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate evidence

What the product description says

“7 Firming Peptides: A unique alliance of 7 Peptides that reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines for smoother and firmer looking skin.”

Source: Dermstore

This product contains astaxanthin, epigallocatechin gallate, ferulic acid, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl tripeptide-8. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

AstaxanthinKey activeEffect: MediumHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-8Key activeEffect: Medium~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.2–0.4%

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.2–0.4%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.4–0.6%

Anti-blemish

3 ingredients credited for this claim

Limited evidence

What the product description says

“This multi-tasking moisturiser is enriched with antioxidants and probiotics to help reduce the appearance of imperfections and protect compromised skin, with fermented lilac cell culture works to reduce redness and minimise unwanted breakouts.”

Source: SpaceNK US

This product contains ingredients (epigallocatechin gallate) that could help reduce blemishes and clogged pores in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.35%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 19 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (astaxanthin, ferulic acid, glutathione) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract, epigallocatechin gallate, rubus idaeus seed oil, tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

AstaxanthinKey activeEffect: HighHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation~0.2–0.4%

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: HighA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.3–0.6%

Rubus idaeus seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.5–0.75%

TetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethaneKey activeEffect: MediumAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.2–0.4%

TetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethaneKey activeEffect: MediumAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.2–0.4%

TetrahydrodiferuloylmethaneKey activeEffect: MediumAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.25–0.4%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.6%

Lonicera caprifolium flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.2–0.35%

CaffeineEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes~0.25–0.5%

Dunaliella salina extractEffect: LowA green micro-algae extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid evidence is lacking. It helps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Euterpe oleracea fruit oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.5–0.75%

Lactobacillus fermentEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.3–0.6%

Lonicera japonica flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating~0.2–0.4%

ErgothioneineUnder-dosedEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking~0.2–0.4%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.4%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.2–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

22 flagged ingredients

Medium risk

We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Lonicera caprifolium flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

TetrahydrodiferuloylmethaneAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

TetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethaneAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

TetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethaneAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Lonicera japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.7–7%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2–2.4%est.

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearateUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~1.7–2.1%est.

Euterpe oleracea fruit oilA plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

Rubus idaeus seed oilA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.4–0.6%est.

CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

GlutathioneA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

AstaxanthinHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.4%est.

Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

T-butyl alcoholUsed to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.7–7%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Isononyl isononanoate~4.3–5.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate

Glycerin~3.1–3.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

C12-15 alkyl benzoate~2.4–2.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate

Polysorbate 60~2–2.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate~1.7–2.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate

Cetearyl olivate~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate

Mannitol~1.1–1.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol

Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~0.9–1.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6

Polyglyceryl-10 oleate~0.65–0.95%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-10 oleate

Euterpe oleracea fruit oil~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Euterpe oleracea fruit oil

Rubus idaeus seed oil~0.5–0.75%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Rubus idaeus seed oil

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.4–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Lactobacillus ferment~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment

Saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A fermented sweet black tea. There is no studies on particular benefits of this ingredient in skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, and might have some anti-oxidant effect. It is used in skincare for mostly marketing purposes because of the popularity of kombucha drinks

More about Saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Ferulic acid~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%

More about Ferulic acid

Ceramide np~0.35–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Caffeine~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

De-puffingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes

More about Caffeine

Honey~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterial

Helps attract water to the skin and might have some anti-bacterial properties. Can be an allergen

More about Honey

Phospholipids~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids

Sphingolipids~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Sphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides

More about Sphingolipids

Hyaluronic acid~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid

Bisabolol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Allantoin~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Epigallocatechin gallate~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizing

A polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare

More about Epigallocatechin gallate

Glutathione~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutathione

Ergothioneine~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

More about Ergothioneine

Dunaliella salina extract~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A green micro-algae extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid evidence is lacking. It helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Dunaliella salina extract

Waltheria indica leaf extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Waltheria indica leaf extract

Lecithin~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Astaxanthin~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation

More about Astaxanthin

Tocopherol~0.25–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Biotin~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin

Benzimidazole diamond amidoethyl urea carbamoyl propyl polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Benzimidazole diamond amidoethyl urea carbamoyl propyl polymethylsilsesquioxane

Teprenone~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Teprenone

Sorbitan olivate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate

Lonicera caprifolium flower extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera caprifolium flower extract

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

More about Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine

Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-38

Dimethyl isosorbide~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane~0.25–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating

More about Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Palmitoyl tripeptide-8~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-8

Acetyl tetrapeptide-40~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acetyl tetrapeptide-40

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

More about Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating

More about Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Dextrin~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Dextrin

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin

Dextran~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar

More about Dextran

Lonicera japonica flower extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating

More about Lonicera japonica flower extract

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Sodium gluconate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate

Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose

Citric acid~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Sodium citrate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Sodium dehydroacetate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate

Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate

T-butyl alcohol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritating

More about T-butyl alcohol

Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Butylene glycol~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Isononyl isononanoate, Glycerin, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Polysorbate 60, Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, Cetearyl olivate, Mannitol, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Polyglyceryl-10 oleate, Euterpe oleracea fruit oil, Rubus idaeus seed oil, Ascorbyl palmitate, Lactobacillus ferment, Saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Ferulic acid, Ceramide np, Caffeine, Honey, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Hyaluronic acid, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Epigallocatechin gallate, Glutathione, Ergothioneine, Dunaliella salina extract, Waltheria indica leaf extract, Lecithin, Astaxanthin, Tocopherol, Biotin, Benzimidazole diamond amidoethyl urea carbamoyl propyl polymethylsilsesquioxane, Teprenone, Sorbitan olivate, Lonicera caprifolium flower extract, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Dimethyl isosorbide, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Palmitoyl tripeptide-8, Acetyl tetrapeptide-40, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Dextrin, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Dextran, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Sodium gluconate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citric acid, Potassium sorbate, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium citrate, Caprylyl glycol, Sodium benzoate, Sodium dehydroacetate, Hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate, T-butyl alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Butylene glycol, Phenoxyethanol

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Allies of Skin - Multi Nutrient & Dioic Renewing Cream" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Allies of Skin - Multi Nutrient & Dioic Renewing Cream ticks this box. Dextran, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, lactobacillus ferment and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide np, isosorbide dicaprylate, sphingolipids, caprylic/capric triglyceride and squalane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.30% - 0.50%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-8 0.25% - 0.45%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: jojoba oil, rosehip oil and allantoin

Irritation risk

There are actives in this product that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 172.22CA$ in Canada, for 165.00A$ in Australia, from 82.00$ up to 132.50$ in the United States, from 95.00£ up to 752.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 780.00HK$ in Hong Kong.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 39 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetraesters as Used in Cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Antioxidant Capacity and Other Bioactivities of the Freeze-Dried Amazonian Palm Berry, Euterpe oleraceae Mart. (Acai)pubs.acs.org
4
The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne, and photoagingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Comparison of clinical and histological effects between lactobacillus-fermented Chamaecyparis obtusa and tea tree oil for the treatment of acne: an eight-week double-blind randomized controlled split-face studyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Use of Probiotics for Dermal Applicationsresearchgate.net
7
Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Propertyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
Antioxidant Properties of Ferulic Acid and Its Possible Applicationkarger.com
10
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
The role of epidermal sphingolipids in dermatologic diseasesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
15
α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
16
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
17
Great green tea ingredient? A narrative literature review on epigallocatechin gallate and its biophysical properties for topical use in dermatologyonlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
Comparative Evaluation of Different Co-Antioxidants on the Photochemical- and Functional-Stability of Epigallocatechin-3-gallate in Topical Creams Exposed to Simulated Sunlightmdpi.com
19
Photodegradation of (−)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate in topical cream formulations and its photostabilizationsciencedirect.com
20
Glutathione as a skin whitening agent: Facts, myths, evidence and controversiesijdvl.com
21
Glutathione for skin lightening: a regnant myth or evidence-based verity?ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Glutathione for skin lightening for dermatologists and cosmetologistsijord.com
23
A comparison of the relative antioxidant potency of L‐ergothioneine and idebenoneonlinelibrary.wiley.com
24
l-Ergothioneine Protects Skin Cells against UV-Induced Damage—A Preliminary Studymdpi.com
25
Dunaliella salina alga extract inhibits the production of interleukin-6, nitric oxide, and reactive oxygen species by regulating nuclear factor-κB/Janus kinase/signal transducer and activator of transcription in virus-infected RAW264.7 cellssciencedirect.com
26
Biochemical composition and bioactivity screening of various extracts from Dunaliella salina, a green microalgancbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Astaxanthin, canthaxanthin and b-carotene differently affect UVA-induced oxidative damage and expression of oxidative stress-responsive enzymesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
28
Astaxanthin attenuates the UVA-induced up-regulation of matrixmetalloproteinase-1 and skin fibroblast elastase in human dermal fibroblastssciencedirect.com
29
Protective Effects of Topical Application of a Poorly Soluble Antioxidant Astaxanthin Liposomal Formulation on Ultraviolet-Induced Skin Damageonlinelibrary.wiley.com
30
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
32
VOLATILE CONSTITUENTS FROM THE FLOWERS OF TWO SPECIES OF HONEYSUCKLE ( LONICERA JAPONICA AND LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM )semanticscholar.org
33
Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositionspatents.google.com
34
Use of tetrahydrocurcuminoids to regulate physiological and pathological events in the skin and mucosapatents.google.com
35
Tetrahydrocurcuminoid cream plus targeted narrowband UVB phototherapy for vitiligo: a preliminary randomized controlled studyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
36
Skin lightening effect of tetrahydrocurcuminomicsonline.org
37
Chemical composition of the essential oils from the flower, leaf and stem of Lonicera japonicancbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acidjournals.sagepub.com
39
Amended final report of the safety assessment of t-Butyl Alcohol as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Allies of SkinMulti Nutrient & Dioic Renewing Cream

Buy at Dermstore$55.00 Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Dermstore$55.00 Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.