Allies of Skin

Allies of Skin Founder's Essence 56 Ellagic & P.A.D. Light Reflecting Fluid

Name: Allies of Skin - Founder's Essence 56 Ellagic & P.A.D. Light Reflecting Fluid
Brand: Allies of Skin

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Panthenol, Acetyl glucosamine + 23 more

Works well

What the product description says

“84% see more hydrated skin²”

Source: Dermstore

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl glucosamine, panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.1–0.3%

Acetyl glucosamineHero· HumectantEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~0.1–0.3%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.2–4.8%

Potassium azeloyl diglycinateKey activeEffect: MediumA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~2.6–3.8%

Alpha-glucan oligosaccharideKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~2.1–3.2%

Lycium barbarum fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~1.4–2%

EctoinKey activeEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.3–0.7%

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.15–0.5%

GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.35%

Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.1–0.3%

InulinKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking~0.1–0.4%

LactobacillusKey activeEffect: HighA non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation~0.1–0.45%

LysineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.3%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.3%

Chlorella vulgaris extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.1–0.45%

ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.1–0.35%

Heptyl undecylenateKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finish~0.1–0.4%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.05–0.25%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–1%

Polymnia sonchifolia root juiceEffect: LowA plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.1–0.45%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.1–0.4%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.45%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.35%

Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.55%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.05–0.2%

Evens skin tone

Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Glutathione + 6 more

Works well

What the product description says

“A naturally occurring antioxidant, Ellagic Acid can help brighten skin, visibly improve dark spots and discoloration, and protect skin from environmental damage.”

Source: Dermstore

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: acetyl glucosamine, ellagic acid, glutathione, potassium azeloyl diglycinate

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, punica granatum extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Potassium azeloyl diglycinateKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~2.6–3.8%

Ellagic acidKey activeEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone~0.1–0.45%

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~0.1–0.3%

Punica granatum extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effective~1.2–1.8%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.5–1.15%

Anti-oxidation

Side benefit · Lycium barbarum fruit extract, Punica granatum extract + 13 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, astaxanthin, glutathione, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract, lycium barbarum fruit extract, punica granatum extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Lycium barbarum fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~1.4–2%

Punica granatum extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effective~1.2–1.8%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–1%

AstaxanthinKey activeEffect: HighHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation~0.1–0.3%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.5–1.15%

Chlorella vulgaris extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.1–0.45%

Ellagic acidEffect: LowCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone~0.1–0.45%

Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.55%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.1–0.35%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.05–0.3%

ErgothioneineUnder-dosedCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking~0.1–0.3%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.35%

Anti-aging

Side benefit · Centella asiatica leaf extract, Acetyl glucosamine + 10 more

Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains acetyl glucosamine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, astaxanthin, centella asiatica leaf extract, lysine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Centella asiatica leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.95–1.4%

LysineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.3%

AstaxanthinKey activeEffect: MediumHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation~0.1–0.3%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.05–0.25%

Lycium barbarum fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~1.4–2%

UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.15–0.5%

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.1–0.3%

Anti-blemish

Side benefit · Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Centella asiatica leaf extract + 2 more

May help

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains potassium azeloyl diglycinate.

Centella asiatica leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.95–1.4%

InulinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking~0.1–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

19 flagged ingredients

Medium risk

We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Polymnia sonchifolia root juiceA plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.1–0.45%est.

Lycium barbarum fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layerMedium~1.4–2%est.

Punica granatum extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effectiveMedium~1.2–1.8%est.

Centella asiatica leaf extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.Medium~0.95–1.4%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.5–1.15%est.

Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesMedium~0.1–0.45%est.

Ellagic acidCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin toneMedium~0.1–0.45%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.05–0.25%est.

AstaxanthinHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammationMedium~0.1–0.3%est.

GlutathioneA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.1–0.35%est.

Heptyl undecylenateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finishMedium~0.1–0.4%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.3%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.1–0.4%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.25%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.2%est.

Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.05–0.2%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.05–0.2%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.15–0.55%est.

Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties3/5~0.1–0.45%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Polysorbate 20~3.4–5.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Glycerin~3.2–4.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Potassium azeloyl diglycinate~2.6–3.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizing

A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture

More about Potassium azeloyl diglycinate

Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide~2.1–3.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide

Dimethyl isosorbide~1.6–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide

Lycium barbarum fruit extract~1.4–2%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer

More about Lycium barbarum fruit extract

Punica granatum extract~1.2–1.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effective

More about Punica granatum extract

Centella asiatica leaf extract~0.95–1.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.

More about Centella asiatica leaf extract

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.5–1.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.45–1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Ectoin~0.3–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Ectoin

Ribose~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ribose

Laminaria digitata extract~0.15–0.55%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract

Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.1–0.45%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

More about Chlorella vulgaris extract

Polymnia sonchifolia root juice~0.1–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Polymnia sonchifolia root juice

Ellagic acid~0.1–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can help prevent and treat hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone

More about Ellagic acid

Ubiquinone~0.15–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone

Lactobacillus~0.1–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation

More about Lactobacillus

Inulin~0.1–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking

More about Inulin

Lecithin~0.1–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Bisabolol~0.05–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Panthenol~0.1–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Hyaluronic acid~0.1–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid

Acetyl glucosamine~0.1–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliation

An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin

More about Acetyl glucosamine

Asiaticoside~0.05–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Astaxanthin~0.1–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation

More about Astaxanthin

Ergothioneine~0.1–0.3%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

More about Ergothioneine

Glutathione~0.1–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingEvens skin tone

A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutathione

Tocopherol~0.1–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Tocopheryl acetate~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Heptyl undecylenate~0.1–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finish

More about Heptyl undecylenate

Sodium mannose phosphate~0.05–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium mannose phosphate

Mannose~0.1–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Mannose

Lysine~0.1–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Lysine

Proline~0.1–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Proline

Copper sulfate~0.1–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Copper sulfate

Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.1–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate

Saccharide isomerate~0.1–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Sea water~0.1–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Dissolves other ingredients. It does not have additional skin benefits compared to plain water

More about Sea water

C13-15 alkane~0.1–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients in the formula

More about C13-15 alkane

1,2-hexanediol~0.1–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Caprylyl glycol~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Propanediol~0.1–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Maltodextrin~0.05–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin

Xanthan gum~0.05–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Sodium gluconate~0.05–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate

Sclerotium gum~0.05–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum

Tropolone~0.05–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tropolone

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric acid~0.05–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Sodium hydroxide~0.05–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Hexylene glycol~0.05–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol

Lactic acid~0.05–0.2%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Potassium sorbate~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Ingredient list view

Water, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, Dimethyl isosorbide, Lycium barbarum fruit extract, Punica granatum extract, Centella asiatica leaf extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Ectoin, Ribose, Laminaria digitata extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Polymnia sonchifolia root juice, Ellagic acid, Ubiquinone, Lactobacillus, Inulin, Lecithin, Bisabolol, Panthenol, Hyaluronic acid, Acetyl glucosamine, Asiaticoside, Astaxanthin, Ergothioneine, Glutathione, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl acetate, Heptyl undecylenate, Sodium mannose phosphate, Mannose, Lysine, Proline, Copper sulfate, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Saccharide isomerate, Sea water, C13-15 alkane, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Propanediol, Maltodextrin, Xanthan gum, Sodium gluconate, Sclerotium gum, Tropolone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric acid, Sodium hydroxide, Hexylene glycol, Lactic acid, Potassium sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Allies of SkinFounder's Essence 56 Ellagic & P.A.D. Light Reflecting FluidYOUR PRODUCT	Tracie MartynAbsolute Purity Toner	AnthonyPurifying Astringent Pads	FilorgaGlobal Repair Essence
Match	—	59%	56%	51%
Price	$111.00	$60.00−$51.00	$32.00−$79.00	$51.90−$59.10
Shared key ingredients	—	3 of 20	3 of 20	3 of 20
Key difference	—	Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract	Oatmeal Extract	Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Irritancy	Medium	Medium	High	High
Drying alcohol	—	—	Contains drying alcohol	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 44 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Clinical and instrumental assessment of the effects of a new product based on hydroxypropyl chitosan and potassium azeloyl diglycinate in the management of rosaceancbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
A Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of a Topical Product for Reducing Slight Rosacea Imperfectionsdovepress.com
4
Azeloyl-Glycine: A new active in skin disequilibriumresearchgate.net
5
Formulation and evaluation of the cream made from potassium azeloyl diglycinate as an anti-agingresearchgate.net
6
Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositionspatents.google.com
7
Water-soluble polysaccharide from dried Lycium barbarum fruits: Isolation, structural features and antioxidant activitysciencedirect.com
8
Lycium barbarum polysaccharide protects human keratinocytes against UVB-induced photo-damagetandfonline.com
9
Lycium Barbarum and Human Healthlink.springer.com
10
Extract of Punica granatum inhibits skin photoaging induced by UVB irradiationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Topical microemulsion containing Punica granatum extract: its control over skin erythema and melanin in healthy Asian subjectsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Safety Assessment of Punica granatum -Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
13
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
15
Tolerance and Efficacy of a Product Containing Ellagic and Salicylic Acids in Reducing Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots in Comparison With 4% Hydroquinonejddonline.com
16
Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Ellagic Acid on Keratinocytes via MAPK and STAT Pathwaysmdpi.com
17
Probiotics and prebiotics potential for the care of skin, female urogenital tract, and respiratory tractlink.springer.com
18
α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
19
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
20
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
21
Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
23
The effect of N-acetyl-glucosamine on stratum corneum desquamation and water content in human skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Glucosamine: an ingredient with skin and other benefitsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
25
Genomic expression changes induced by topical N-acetyl glucosamine in skin equivalent cultures in vitroonlinelibrary.wiley.com
26
Incorporation of D-(^H)glucosamine into normal and psoriatic epidermal glycoconjugatesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
27
Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-acetyl glucosamineonlinelibrary.wiley.com
28
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
30
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
31
Astaxanthin, canthaxanthin and b-carotene differently affect UVA-induced oxidative damage and expression of oxidative stress-responsive enzymesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
32
Astaxanthin attenuates the UVA-induced up-regulation of matrixmetalloproteinase-1 and skin fibroblast elastase in human dermal fibroblastssciencedirect.com
33
Protective Effects of Topical Application of a Poorly Soluble Antioxidant Astaxanthin Liposomal Formulation on Ultraviolet-Induced Skin Damageonlinelibrary.wiley.com
34
A comparison of the relative antioxidant potency of L‐ergothioneine and idebenoneonlinelibrary.wiley.com
35
l-Ergothioneine Protects Skin Cells against UV-Induced Damage—A Preliminary Studymdpi.com
36
Glutathione as a skin whitening agent: Facts, myths, evidence and controversiesijdvl.com
37
Glutathione for skin lightening: a regnant myth or evidence-based verity?ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Glutathione for skin lightening for dermatologists and cosmetologistsijord.com
39
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
40
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
41
Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
42
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
43
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
44
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org

Allies of SkinFounder's Essence 56 Ellagic & P.A.D. Light Reflecting Fluid

Buy at Dermstore$111.00 $110.00as of 11/10 21:24 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Dermstore$111.00 $110.00as of 11/10 21:24 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.