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Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum CLEARANCE
Allies of Skin

Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum CLEARANCE

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Tocopherol + 1 more
May help
What the product description says
“20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum CLEARANCE”
From product name

This product contains dimethylmethoxy chromanol, glutathione. These ingredients help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they might be able to prevent early signs of aging (like fine lines and wrinkles), at least to some extent. These ingredients will not be able to "reverse" signs of aging.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidEffect: LowA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~4.8–7.2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.65%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.15–0.7%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Glutathione + 4 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (dimethylmethoxy chromanol, glutathione) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~4.8–7.2%
GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–1.1%
Dimethylmethoxy chromanolKey activeEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.35–0.85%
ErgothioneineUnder-dosedCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking~0.3–0.75%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.65%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.15–0.7%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Glutathione + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glutathione

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~4.8–7.2%
GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–1.1%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.15–0.7%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Glycerin, Helianthus annuus seed wax + 6 more
Works

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, calcium gluconate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed wax, caprylyl glycol.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.1–6.2%
Helianthus annuus seed waxKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency~2.2–3.3%
GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–1.1%
Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~1.3–1.9%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.85–1.3%
Calcium gluconate· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product~0.1–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.65%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.15–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Citrus aurantium dulcis callus culture extract
Medium risk
We flagged 7 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~4.8–7.2%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis callus culture extract—High~0.55–1.25%est.
EthoxydiglycolHelps to improve the product consistencyMedium~1.4–2%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.85–1.3%est.
GlutathioneA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.45–1.1%est.
GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.15–0.7%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.1–0.5%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum
Babo Botanicals Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum
Higher efficacy · 83/10073% match
Laboratories Dark Spot Correcting Booster Serum
No7 Laboratories Dark Spot Correcting Booster Serum
Higher efficacy · 100/10058% match
$41.99
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Propanediol~23–34%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Glycerin~4.1–6.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid~4.8–7.2%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
Benzimidazole diamond amidoethyl urea carbamoyl propyl polymethylsilsesquioxane~3.5–5.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Benzimidazole diamond amidoethyl urea carbamoyl propyl polymethylsilsesquioxane
Dimethyl isosorbide~2.6–3.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Helianthus annuus seed wax~2.2–3.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency

More about Helianthus annuus seed wax
Polyglyceryl-10 tristearate~1.6–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Polyglyceryl-10 tristearate
Ethoxydiglycol~1.4–2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to improve the product consistency

More about Ethoxydiglycol
Dicaprylyl ether~1.3–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether
Water~0.95–1.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylyl glycol~0.85–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Citrus aurantium dulcis callus culture extract~0.55–1.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium dulcis callus culture extract
Glutathione~0.45–1.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingEvens skin tone

A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutathione
Acetyl cysteine~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Acetyl cysteine
Dimethylmethoxy chromanol~0.35–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Dimethylmethoxy chromanol
Ergothioneine~0.3–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

More about Ergothioneine
Tocopherol~0.15–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Gluconolactone~0.15–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Silica~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Calcium gluconate~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product

More about Calcium gluconate
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Propanediol, Glycerin, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Benzimidazole diamond amidoethyl urea carbamoyl propyl polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethyl isosorbide, Helianthus annuus seed wax, Polyglyceryl-10 tristearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Dicaprylyl ether, Water, Caprylyl glycol, Citrus aurantium dulcis callus culture extract, Glutathione, Acetyl cysteine, Dimethylmethoxy chromanol, Ergothioneine, Tocopherol, Gluconolactone, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Xanthan gum, Silica, Sodium benzoate, Calcium gluconate, Phenoxyethanol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Allies of Skin20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum CLEARANCEYOUR PRODUCTBabo BotanicalsAllies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm SerumNo7Laboratories Dark Spot Correcting Booster SerumYouth To The PeopleSuperfood Firm + Brighten Serum
Match—73%58%57%
Price——$41.99—
Shared key ingredients—7 of 73 of 73 of 7
Key difference——Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit ExtractTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Irritancy Medium Medium Low Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Allies of Skin - 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum CLEARANCE" is effective for: Evens skin tone

This product could be helpful for: Moisturizing and Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Humectants (glycerin 4.10% - 6.20%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails for 90.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Antioxidant Ability and Stability Studies of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a Cosmetic Tyrosinase Inhibitorncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositionspatents.google.com
  4. 4
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Glutathione as a skin whitening agent: Facts, myths, evidence and controversiesijdvl.com
  6. 6
    Glutathione for skin lightening: a regnant myth or evidence-based verity?ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum CLEARANCE
Allies of Skin20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum CLEARANCE
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