Ahava Exclusive Activating Smoothing Essence

Ahava Exclusive Activating Smoothing Essence

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Tripeptide-3, Trehalose + 12 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Treat skin to the nourishing properties of AHAVA Exclusive Activating Smoothing Essence , a lightweight water-lotion solution that promotes softer, more hydrated skin.”
Source: Mankind

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": biosaccharide gum-1, galactoarabinan.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: tripeptide-3

Tripeptide-3HeroEffect: High~0.6–0.9%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~3.2–3.9%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.6–3.2%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~2.1–2.5%
Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.95–1.15%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
GalactoarabinanKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~4–4.9%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.7–1.05%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.5–0.7%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.5%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.2–1.4%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.5–0.7%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.55%
Anti-aging
Tripeptide-3, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice + 1 more
May help
What the product description says
“Formulated with a host of active nourishing ingredients and the brand's clinically proven, exclusive wrinkle-smoothing patent, AoSTM Complex, the hydrating essence delivers a surge of moisture to help hydrate and plump the appearance of skin, leaving it feeling softer and more receptive of the next steps in your skincare routine.”
Source: Mankind

This product contains tripeptide-3. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Tripeptide-3Key activeEffect: Medium~0.6–0.9%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.2–1.4%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.5–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Rosa centifolia flower water, Parfum + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Rosa centifolia flower water—High~0.25–0.5%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Hexyl cinnamalA fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~1.2–1.4%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
GalactoarabinanHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propanediol~4.9–6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane~4–4.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane
Trehalose~3.2–3.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Glycerin~2.6–3.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Saccharide isomerate~2.1–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Cryptomeria japonica bud extract~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~1.2–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.95–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1
Butylene glycol~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Tripeptide-3~0.6–0.9%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging
More about Tripeptide-3
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Acmella oleracea extract~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Propylene glycol~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Trideceth-9~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Trideceth-9
Niacinamide~0.5–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Calotropis procera callus extract~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Xanthan gum~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Allantoin~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAnti-blemishReduces irritationExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Maris aqua~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Sea water. Helps dissolve other ingredients in a product

More about Maris aqua
Rosa centifolia flower water~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
1,2-hexanediol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Galactoarabinan~0.15–0.25%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Galactoarabinan
Phoenix dactylifera fruit extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Parfum~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Hexyl cinnamal~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritant

More about Hexyl cinnamal
Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, Trehalose, Glycerin, Saccharide isomerate, Cryptomeria japonica bud extract, Phenoxyethanol, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Biosaccharide gum-1, Butylene glycol, Tripeptide-3, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Acmella oleracea extract, Propylene glycol, Trideceth-9, Niacinamide, Calotropis procera callus extract, Xanthan gum, Allantoin, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Maris aqua, Rosa centifolia flower water, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Sodium hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Galactoarabinan, Phoenix dactylifera fruit extract, Parfum, Hexyl cinnamal

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
AhavaExclusive Activating Smoothing EssenceYOUR PRODUCTSWANICOCOPeptine Biome For Men All In One EssencenumbuzinNo.9 NAD Bio Lifting-sil Essencee.l.f. CosmeticsHydrating Water Essence
Match—91%84%81%
Price—$22.17$19.20$0.13
Shared key ingredients—5 of 94 of 94 of 9
Key difference—Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl EsterAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl EsterUrea
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "Ahava - Exclusive Activating Smoothing Essence" works well for moisturizing the skin. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Biosaccharide gum-1, galactoarabinan, glycerin, saccharide isomerate and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane and caprylyl glycol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (tripeptide-3 0.65% - 1.00%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: niacinamide and allantoin

Irritation risk

We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 48.95$ in the United States and from 33.00£ up to 55.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Ahava Exclusive Activating Smoothing Essence
AhavaExclusive Activating Smoothing Essence

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.