Aesop

Perfect Facial Hydrating Cream

Name: Aesop - Perfect Facial Hydrating Cream
Brand: Aesop

Efficacy 75/100·High irritancy · In 1 routines

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

6 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, aloe barbadensis leaf juice.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: simmondsia chinensis seed oil, glycine soja oil.

GLYCINE SOJA OILRole: Key activeA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.35–0.8%

ROSA CANINA FRUIT OILRole: Under-dosedA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~1.3–2%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.6–5.4%

THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTERRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~1–1.6%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.95%

SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OILRole: Key activeSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~2.2–3.3%

Irritancy

17 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Boswellia carterii oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.8%est.

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.15–0.6%est.

Benzalkonium chlorideHelps water and oil mix together and works as a cleansing agent (detergent). Also used as a preservative. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Iodopropynyl butylcarbamateA preservative. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.02%est.

MethylisothiazolinoneA preservative. Is a frequent allergenHigh~0.00075–0.0015%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.05%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinLow~2.7–4.1%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Low~2.2–3.3%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CLow~1.7–2.5%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesLow~1.6–2.3%est.

Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingLow~1.3–2%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Low~0.35–0.8%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.2–0.8%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.15–0.6%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.1–0.45%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin

High risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~1–1.6%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~5.3–7.9%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMed~1.6–2.3%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Med~0.35–0.8%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels