Aesop Mandarin Hydrating Cream

Aesop Mandarin Hydrating Cream

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
12 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Mandarin Hydrating Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, saccharide isomerate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, glycine soja oil.

Triticum vulgare germ oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).~0.25–0.45%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.25–0.45%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Helianthus annuus seed waxKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency~0.45–0.65%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%
Sesamum indicum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.45–0.7%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4–4.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.6–3.2%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~4.5–5.5%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1–1.2%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~2.5–3.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
9 strong irritants: Citrus limon peel oil, Hamamelis virginiana water + 7 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~1.2–1.4%est.
Hamamelis virginiana waterA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
Citrus tangerina peel oilEssential oil that can be irritating. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.25%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.15–0.3%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Triticum vulgare germ oilA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.6–3.2%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.25–0.45%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Coco-caprylate/caprate~4.5–5.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Glycerin~4–4.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cetearyl alcohol~2.6–3.2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Behenyl alcohol~2.5–3.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 stearate~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
Corylus avellana seed oil~1.7–2%
Formula
Rosa canina seed extract~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Citrus limon peel oil~1.2–1.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Glyceryl stearate citrate~1–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Euphorbia cerifera wax~0.9–1.15%
Formula
Saccharide isomerate~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Sesamum indicum seed oil~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Sesamum indicum seed oil
Hamamelis virginiana water~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana water
Helianthus annuus seed wax~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency

More about Helianthus annuus seed wax
Tocopherol~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Citrus tangerina peel oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Essential oil that can be irritating. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus tangerina peel oil
Silica~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Microcrystalline cellulose~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Exfoliation
More about Microcrystalline cellulose
Glycine soja oil~0.25–0.45%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Glyceryl caprate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Benzyl alcohol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate
Triticum vulgare germ oil~0.25–0.45%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).

More about Triticum vulgare germ oil
Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil
Sodium gluconate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Sodium citrate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Citric acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Cellulose gum~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create thicker product consistency and stabilize emulsions

More about Cellulose gum
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Benzoic acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Beta-carotene~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract
Limonene~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citral~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Geraniol~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Citronellol~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Ingredient list view

Water, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 stearate, Corylus avellana seed oil, Rosa canina seed extract, Citrus limon peel oil, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Euphorbia cerifera wax, Saccharide isomerate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sesamum indicum seed oil, Hamamelis virginiana water, Helianthus annuus seed wax, Tocopherol, Citrus tangerina peel oil, Silica, Microcrystalline cellulose, Glycine soja oil, Xanthan gum, Glyceryl caprate, Benzyl alcohol, Sodium dehydroacetate, Triticum vulgare germ oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Sodium gluconate, Sodium citrate, Citric acid, Cellulose gum, Ascorbyl palmitate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Benzoic acid, Beta-carotene, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Limonene, Citral, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

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Aesop Mandarin Hydrating Cream
AesopMandarin Hydrating Cream

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.