Aesop Lucent Facial Concentrate

Aesop Lucent Facial Concentrate

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Niacinamide, Glycerin + 3 more
Works well
What the product description says
“The lightweight-nature of this formula makes it suitable for most skin types, absorbing quickly to provide long-lasting hydration.”
Source: Mankind

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.7–4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.9–5.9%
Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.15–0.65%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.2–0.75%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.15–0.6%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Niacinamide
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.7–4%
Anti-aging
Side benefit the brand mentions · Niacinamide, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Works well
What the product description says
“Discover Aesop Lucent Facial Concentrate, a lightweight, vitamin C-rich layering serum that soothes, replenishes and balances skin with its complex blend of anti-oxidant, hydrating and conditioning ingredients.”
Source: Feelunique

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.7–4%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: LowA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~3.6–5.4%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Niacinamide, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains sodium ascorbyl phosphate. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.7–4%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateKey activeEffect: HighA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~3.6–5.4%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Bisabolol
May help

This product contains antioxidants (sodium ascorbyl phosphate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateKey activeEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~3.6–5.4%
BisabololEffect: LowAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.45–1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Boswellia carterii oil, Rosa damascena flower oil + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Boswellia carterii oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.75%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Sodium anisateUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.1%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~3.6–5.4%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.9–2.9%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~1.3–2%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Maris salUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.05–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~3.9–5.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~3.6–5.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Niacinamide~2.7–4%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~1.9–2.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Citric acid~1.3–2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Xanthan gum~1.2–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sodium gluconate~0.9–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate
Bisabolol~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Polysorbate 20~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Boswellia carterii oil~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Boswellia carterii oil
Fusanus spicatus wood oil~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.15–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1
Sodium carrageenan~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium carrageenan
Glyceryl caprylate~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Sodium anisate~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Sodium anisate
Sodium levulinate~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Maris sal~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Maris sal
Limonene~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citronellol~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Farnesol~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Geraniol~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Niacinamide, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Phenoxyethanol, Citric acid, Xanthan gum, Sodium gluconate, Sodium dehydroacetate, Bisabolol, Polysorbate 20, Boswellia carterii oil, Fusanus spicatus wood oil, Rosa damascena flower oil, Biosaccharide gum-1, Sodium carrageenan, Glyceryl caprylate, Sodium anisate, Sodium levulinate, Maris sal, Limonene, Citronellol, Farnesol, Geraniol

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Retailers ranked by price — lowest first.

Bluemercury
$125.00 Out of stock
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SpaceNK US
≈ $125.65
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Amazon USPrice as of 11/13 12:03 GMT
$141.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
AesopLucent Facial ConcentrateYOUR PRODUCTHydroPeptideFirma-Bright 20% Vitamin C BoosterhellobubbleDay Dream SerumBubble SkincareDay Dream Tone and Texture Serum
Match—97%97%97%
Price≈ $125.65$97.20≈ −$28.45$28.77≈ −$96.88$14.01≈ −$111.64
Shared key ingredients—3 of 53 of 53 of 5
Key difference—Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Alpha-ArbutinAlpha-Arbutin
Irritancy High Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop

More alternatives: Dr. David Jack Good Morning Vitamin C SerumNEOGEN X SUR.MEDIC Real Vita C Serum

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Product summary

"Aesop - Lucent Facial Concentrate" is effective for: Moisturizing, Anti-blemish, Anti-aging and Evens skin tone

Ingredient callouts

  • A good concentration of Niacinamide (2.70% - 4.00%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
  • Humectants (glycerin 3.90% - 5.90% and biosaccharide gum-1 0.20% - 0.75%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Aesop" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails from 85.00$ up to 125.00$ in the United States, for 179.76A$ in Australia and from 85.00£ up to 609.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

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  6. 6

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.