3LAB 'M' Cream

3LAB 'M' Cream

Efficacy66/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“PhytoCellTec™ Malus Domestica, stem cells from a rare Swiss Apple that have been proven to slow down and delay the aging process.”
Source: Skinstore

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: oligopeptide-9.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.45–0.65%
Oligopeptide-9Key activeEffect: Medium~0.5–0.75%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
Moisturizing
22 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“'M' Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cyclomethicone, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, peg-10 dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: oligopeptide-9, urea

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.25–0.45%
CyclomethiconeKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer~5.8–7.1%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.1–2.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4–4.9%
Oligopeptide-9HeroEffect: High~0.5–0.75%
Peg-10 dimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss~1.6–1.9%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.8%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.6–0.9%
Stearyl dimethiconeKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.5%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.45–0.65%
Cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethiconeEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps water and oil mix together. Can help to soften upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.1–3.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.25%
Caprylyl methiconeEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin~1.7–2.1%
Cetyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture~2.5–3%
PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.25–0.45%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.6%
Avena sativa kernel extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.45–0.7%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.45%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
Evens skin tone
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Weak support

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Humulus lupulus extract, Melissa officinalis leaf extract + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Humulus lupulus extractHops extract. Can contain common irritants and allergens geraniol, limonene, linaloolHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Melissa officinalis leaf extractA plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Achillea millefolium extractPlant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
Citrus aurantium amara peel oil—High~0.25–0.45%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Cetyl ethylhexanoateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product textureMedium~2.5–3%est.
Viscum album leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid research is lackingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
EdtaHelp to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cyclomethicone~5.8–7.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer

More about Cyclomethicone
Glycerin~4–4.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Cetyl ethylhexanoate~2.5–3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture

More about Cetyl ethylhexanoate
Dimethicone~2.1–2.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Caprylyl methicone~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin

More about Caprylyl methicone
Peg-10 dimethicone~1.6–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss

More about Peg-10 dimethicone
Stearyl dimethicone~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Stearyl dimethicone
Polymethyl methacrylate~1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Is used to enhance product texture and can help to optically mask skin imperfections

More about Polymethyl methacrylate
Disteardimonium hectorite~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A type of clay that is used to thicken the product consistency

More about Disteardimonium hectorite
Sodium pca~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Sodium hyaluronate~0.55–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Human
Not recognized
Oligopeptide-9~0.5–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging
More about Oligopeptide-9
Malus domestica fruit cell culture
Not recognized
Adenosine~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Krameria triandra root extract~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Avena sativa kernel extract~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel extract
Vitex agnus castus extract~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Foeniculum vulgare fruit extract~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Humulus lupulus extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Hops extract. Can contain common irritants and allergens geraniol, limonene, linalool

More about Humulus lupulus extract
Melissa officinalis leaf extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Melissa officinalis leaf extract
Viscum album leaf extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant extract that has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but solid research is lacking

More about Viscum album leaf extract
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Achillea millefolium extract~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Achillea millefolium extract
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Citrus aurantium amara peel oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Urea~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Allantoin~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishReduces irritationReduces rednessExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cyclodextrin~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A type of sugar that is used to support delivery of active ingredients and can enhance their penetration into the skin without disrupting the skin's barrier

More about Cyclodextrin
Cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A type of silicone that helps water and oil mix together. Can help to soften upper layer of the skin

More about Cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone
Bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Panthenol~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Sodium citrate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sclerotium gum~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Alcohol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Magnesium sulfate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Magnesium sulfate
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sodium phosphate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium phosphate
Sodium chloride~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Edta~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Help to stabilize the product formulation

More about Edta
Disodium edta~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Synthetic fluorphlogopite~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A mineral that is used as an optical filter (makes the skin looks nicer through light reflection) and to improve the texture of cosmetic products

More about Synthetic fluorphlogopite
Titanium dioxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Tin oxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Ingredient list view

Water, Cyclomethicone, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Cetyl ethylhexanoate, Dimethicone, Caprylyl methicone, Peg-10 dimethicone, Stearyl dimethicone, Polymethyl methacrylate, Disteardimonium hectorite, Sodium pca, Sodium hyaluronate, Unknown, Oligopeptide-9, Unknown, Adenosine, Krameria triandra root extract, Avena sativa kernel extract, Vitex agnus castus extract, Foeniculum vulgare fruit extract, Humulus lupulus extract, Melissa officinalis leaf extract, Viscum album leaf extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Achillea millefolium extract, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl acetate, Citrus aurantium amara peel oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Urea, Allantoin, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cyclodextrin, Cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone, Bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, Panthenol, Lecithin, Sodium citrate, Citric acid, Sclerotium gum, Alcohol, Magnesium sulfate, Xanthan gum, Sodium phosphate, Sodium chloride, Edta, Disodium edta, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Titanium dioxide, Tin oxide, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol

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Product summary

"3LAB -'M' Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Urea, cyclomethicone, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and sodium pca in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Cyclomethicone, stearyl dimethicone, dimethicone, peg-10 dimethicone and caprylyl glycol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This moistruizer also contains peptides (oligopeptide-9 0.50% - 0.75%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
  • Adenosine 0.45% - 0.65% in this product adds an anti-aging property to it. Adenosine is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of adenosine in a low concentration reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where we our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 350.00$ in the United States, from 142.07£ up to 266.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 399.00CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

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