Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Key actives
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
A peptide-powered, hydrating eye cream that is clinically proven to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and combat advanced signs of aging around the delicate eye area.
Source: Bluemercury
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: centella asiatica extract.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Age spots and dark circles become brighter thanks to added botanical extracts that work to improve microcirculation and lift the upper lid.
Source: Bluemercury
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (centella asiatica extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
Plant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
A compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skin
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
A plant extract that if used in high concentration might help to neutralize free radicals in skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
A peptide-powered, hydrating eye cream that is clinically proven to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and combat advanced signs of aging around the delicate eye area.
Source: Bluemercury
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, beta-sitosterol.
A type of lipids naturally present in skin. They can be converted to ceramides in skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic
A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
An emollient that helps soften the skin
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 91/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
A type of clay that consists mainly of aluminum silicate. Helps absorb oil and creates a thicker product consistency. Can be used to add a white color
An emollient that helps soften the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated
A type of lipids naturally present in skin. They can be converted to ceramides in skin
Potential irritants
A tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
A compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skin
Plant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
A plant extract that if used in high concentration might help to neutralize free radicals in skin
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Helps water and oil mix together and stabilize the product formulation
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Comedogenic ingredients
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic
An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
All ingredients
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic
An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
A plant extract that if used in high concentration might help to neutralize free radicals in skin
A compound obtained from horse chestnut. It is claimed that this chemical can improve circulation, but there is no evidence available that it works in skin
Does not have known skin benefits. Might help create an optical illusion of smoother skin
Plant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
A type of clay that consists mainly of aluminum silicate. Helps absorb oil and creates a thicker product consistency. Can be used to add a white color
Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Helps water and oil mix together and stabilize the product formulation
A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated
A type of lipids naturally present in skin. They can be converted to ceramides in skin
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Isopropyl myristate, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Propanediol, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Sodium hyaluronate, Pistacia lentiscus gum, Crataegus monogyna flower extract, Jasminum sambac flower extract, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Helichrysum stoechas flower extract, Haberlea rhodopensis leaf extract, Acetyl cysteine, Escin, Diamond powder, Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract, Aloe vera leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Benzyl alcohol, Caprylyl glycol, Olea europaea fruit oil, Oryza sativa bran oil, Xanthan gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Kaolin, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Dimethyl isosorbide, Pentylene glycol, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-6 laurate, Citric acid, Polyglyceryl-10 oleate, Glyceryl caprylate/caprate, Sorbitan palmitate, Soy isoflavones, Beta-sitosterol, Glycosphingolipids, 1,2-hexanediol, Sodium benzoate, Lactic acid, Potassium sorbate, Parfum
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Amended Safety Assessment of PEGylated Oils as Used in Cosmetics
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions
- Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics
- Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate
- Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment
- Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studies
- Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Mastic liposome treatment for shiny and impure skin
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Skin benefits of a myconoside-rich extract from resurrection plant Haberlea rhodopensis
- Contact dermatitis as an adverse reaction to some topically used European herbal medicinal products – part 1: Achillea millefolium–Curcuma longa
- Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Model
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
- Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica
- Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts
- Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herba
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial
- Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oil
- Study on the Composition of Rice Bran Oil and Its Higher Free Fatty Acids Value
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmetics
- The Ameliorative Effect of β-sitosterol on DNCB-induced Atopic Dermatitis in Mice
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin