Zelens Z-22 Absolute Face Oil

Zelens Z-22 Absolute Face Oil

Efficacy41/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Camellia oleifera seed oil, Squalane + 7 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“A blend of 22 precious oils, carefully selected for their distinctive skin-restorative properties – from Basil and Bergamot to Rosehip Seed and Rosemary – this lightweight formula reinforces the skin’s natural barrier whilst providing an extra layer of moisture to plump, smooth and strengthen all skin types.”
Source: Cultbeauty

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

Camellia oleifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that does not leave a greasy finish~5.8–8.6%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~4.4–6.6%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~1.3–1.9%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.7–4.1%
Isopropyl myristateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic~2.1–3.2%
Rosa canina fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~1.8–2.6%
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~3.4–5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–1.15%
Anti-aging
Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Tocopherol
Limited evidence
What the product description says
“At the cutting edge of high-performance, anti-ageing skin care, Zelens products combine breakthrough active biotechnology ingredients with a unique blend of plant-derived molecules, to deliver proven, visible results.”
Source: Cultbeauty

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - camellia sinensis leaf extract - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient camellia sinensis leaf extract might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–1.15%
Evens skin tone
Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Weak evidence
What the product description says
“With incredible anti-ageing power, the unique vitamin and fatty acid-rich formula helps restore elasticity and tone whilst plumping and brightening skin for a radiant, younger-looking complexion.”
Source: Recreate Yourself

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.7%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Rosa canina fruit oil + 4 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis leaf extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.7%
Rosa canina fruit oilEffect: LowA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~1.8–2.6%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilEffect: LowA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin~0.3–0.75%
Vitis vinifera seed oilEffect: LowA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~1.3–1.9%
Camellia oleifera seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that does not leave a greasy finish~5.8–8.6%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–1.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
17 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium bergamia peel oil, Parfum + 15 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus aurantium bergamia peel oil—High~0.9–1.35%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.55–1.25%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.4–0.95%est.
Citrus aurantium leaf oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
Cymbopogon citratus leaf oil—High~0.35–0.75%est.
Lavandula angustifolia herb oilA fragrance. Is a common allergen and irritantHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Pelargonium graveolens leaf oilAn essential oil used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Rosa centifolia flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Citrus aurantium peel oil expressed—High~0.15–0.55%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower extractUsed as a fragrance for its citrus smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.01–0.1%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
Camellia oleifera seed oilAn emollient that does not leave a greasy finishMedium~5.8–8.6%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.7–4.1%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~1.8–2.6%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~1.3–1.9%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Isopropyl myristateAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic3/5~2.1–3.2%est.
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Ingredients

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Perilla frutescens seed oil~22–33%
Formula
Oryza sativa bran/germ oil~9.1–13.7%
Formula
Camellia oleifera seed oil~5.8–8.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that does not leave a greasy finish

More about Camellia oleifera seed oil
Squalane~4.4–6.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate~3.4–5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Cetearyl ethylhexanoate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.7–4.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Isopropyl myristate~2.1–3.2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic

More about Isopropyl myristate
Rosa canina fruit oil~1.8–2.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Vitis vinifera seed oil~1.3–1.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Citrus aurantium bergamia peel oil~0.9–1.35%
Irritant · high
Parfum~0.55–1.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Tocopherol~0.5–1.15%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Citrus limon peel oil~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Citrus aurantium leaf oil~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Citrus aurantium leaf oil
Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil
Citrus aurantium peel oil~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Cymbopogon citratus leaf oil~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · high
Elettaria cardamomum seed oil~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Lavandula angustifolia herb oil~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a common allergen and irritant

More about Lavandula angustifolia herb oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Pinus pinaster twig leaf oil~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil
Rosa centifolia flower oil~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Rosa centifolia flower oil
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.3–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Citrus aurantium peel oil expressed~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Citrus aurantium amara flower extract~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance for its citrus smell. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower extract
Jasminum officinale flower oil~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Cistus ladaniferus leaf oil~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Ocimum basilicum herb oil~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Limonene~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citral~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Geraniol~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Citronellol~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Ingredient list view

Perilla frutescens seed oil, Oryza sativa bran/germ oil, Camellia oleifera seed oil, Squalane, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Isopropyl myristate, Rosa canina fruit oil, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia peel oil, Parfum, Tocopherol, Citrus limon peel oil, Citrus aurantium leaf oil, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Citrus aurantium peel oil, Cymbopogon citratus leaf oil, Elettaria cardamomum seed oil, Lavandula angustifolia herb oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Pinus pinaster twig leaf oil, Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil, Rosa centifolia flower oil, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Citrus aurantium peel oil expressed, Citrus aurantium amara flower extract, Jasminum officinale flower oil, Cistus ladaniferus leaf oil, Ocimum basilicum herb oil, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Geraniol, Citronellol

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Zelens Z-22 Absolute Face Oil
ZelensZ-22 Absolute Face Oil

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