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Zelens The Balm
Zelens

Zelens The Balm

Efficacy62/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
15 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“A nourishing and soothing lip balm. Its velvety texture repairs chapped, cracked and dry lips and heals the protective barrier to strengthen and regenerate lip tissue. Size 10ml / .33 Oz”
Source: Materiae

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: beeswax, butyrospermum parkii butter.

BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~2.8–4.2%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.55–1.25%
Theobroma cacao seed butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~1.7–2.5%
Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~4.6–6.9%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.6–2.4%
Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~3.7–5.5%
Ethyl linoleateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking~0.15–0.5%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.2–0.75%
Ethyl oleate· EmollientEffect: LowEthyl oleate is a long-chain fatty acid ethyl ester resulting from the formal condensation of the carboxy group of oleic acid with the hydroxy group of ethanol. It derives from an oleic acid. In skincare, it is used to soften the upper layer of the skin, improve the product texture and smell~0.15–0.55%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.4%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.35–0.8%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~1.2–1.7%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.45–1%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.25%
Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Hyaluronic acid minimises the appearance of fine lines, shea butter increases softness and green shiso leaf provides antioxidant protection against free radical damage and environmental stresses.”
Source: Skinstore

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - butyrospermum parkii butter - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.6–2.4%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.45–1.05%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.25%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains ethyl linoleate.

Ethyl linoleateKey activeEffect: HighHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking~0.15–0.5%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.45–1.05%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Retinyl palmitate, Perilla frutescens leaf extract + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh~2.5–3.8%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.45–1.05%est.
Perilla frutescens leaf extractUsed as a fragrance for its mint-like smellHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
AromaAn unspecified blend of fragrant irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~3.7–5.5%est.
Glyceryl behenateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.95–1.45%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–1%est.
Hydrogenated coco-glyceridesHelps oil and water mix together while creating a nice finish on the skinMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.45–1%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~0.3–0.75%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Ethyl oleateEthyl oleate is a long-chain fatty acid ethyl ester resulting from the formal condensation of the carboxy group of oleic acid with the hydroxy group of ethanol. It derives from an oleic acid. In skincare, it is used to soften the upper layer of the skin, improve the product texture and smellMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Ethyl linoleateHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lackingMedium~0.15–0.5%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect3/5~1.7–2.5%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.6–2.4%est.
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.2–0.75%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Polybutene~22–34%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Polybutene
Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate~4.7–7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate
Oryza sativa bran oil~4.6–6.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil
Cera alba~3.7–5.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba
Beeswax~2.8–4.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Beeswax
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate~2.5–3.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
Theobroma cacao seed butter~1.7–2.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Theobroma cacao seed butter
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.6–2.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Octyldodecanol~1.2–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Glyceryl behenate~0.95–1.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl behenate
Sodium hyaluronate~0.55–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Retinyl palmitate~0.45–1.05%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Perilla frutescens leaf extract~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Used as a fragrance for its mint-like smell

More about Perilla frutescens leaf extract
Hydrogenated coco-glycerides~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together while creating a nice finish on the skin

More about Hydrogenated coco-glycerides
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.45–1%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Helianthus annuus seed extract~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Helianthus annuus seed extract
Lecithin~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Caprylyl glycol~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Silica dimethyl silylate~0.35–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Silica dimethyl silylate
Arachidyl propionate~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Arachidyl propionate
Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.2–0.75%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Ci 77891~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Titanium dioxide~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Aroma~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An unspecified blend of fragrant irritating ingredients

More about Aroma
Parfum~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Bht~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Butylene glycol~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Ethyl oleate~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Ethyl oleate is a long-chain fatty acid ethyl ester resulting from the formal condensation of the carboxy group of oleic acid with the hydroxy group of ethanol. It derives from an oleic acid. In skincare, it is used to soften the upper layer of the skin, improve the product texture and smell

More about Ethyl oleate
Ethyl linolenate~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ethyl linolenate
Ethyl linoleate~0.15–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Helps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking

More about Ethyl linoleate
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Tocopherol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Hexylene glycol~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Ingredient list view

Polybutene, Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, Oryza sativa bran oil, Cera alba, Beeswax, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Octyldodecanol, Glyceryl behenate, Sodium hyaluronate, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Perilla frutescens leaf extract, Hydrogenated coco-glycerides, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Helianthus annuus seed extract, Lecithin, Caprylyl glycol, Silica dimethyl silylate, Arachidyl propionate, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Aroma, Parfum, Bht, Butylene glycol, Ethyl oleate, Ethyl linolenate, Ethyl linoleate, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Hexylene glycol

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 10 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Study on the Composition of Rice Bran Oil and Its Higher Free Fatty Acids Valuelink.springer.com
  3. 3
    Efficacy of barrier creams in comparison to skin care products in dental laboratory technicians--a controlled trialncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuringncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
Zelens The Balm
ZelensThe Balm
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