Yon-Ka Paris Pamplemousse Vitalizing Cream - Dry Skin

Yon-Ka Paris Pamplemousse Vitalizing Cream - Dry Skin

Efficacy25/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Cetearyl alcohol, Olea europaea fruit oil + 11 more
Works
What the product description says
“Pamplemousse Vitalizing Cream , Dry Skin”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, caprylyl glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: beeswax, cera alba.

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~6.1–7.5%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~4.3–5.2%
Cucurbita pepo seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~3.2–3.9%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2–2.4%
Decyl oleateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.7–2.1%
Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.65–0.95%
BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.55–0.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.25–0.45%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~2.3–2.8%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1–1.2%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.3–0.6%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
Evens skin tone
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate ~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
What the product description says
“Vitamin C combats free radical damage while supporting collagen and promoting a luminous skin tone.”
Source: Dermstore

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%
Anti-aging
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate ~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
What the product description says
“Geranium flower oil enhances skin cell regeneration and improves elasticity for a youthful appearance.”
Source: Dermstore

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
14 strong irritants: Citrus grandis fruit extract, Citrus limon peel oil + 12 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 23 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~2.3–2.8%est.
Citrus grandis fruit extract—High~0.35–0.65%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Citrus aurantifolia oil—High~0.4–0.6%est.
Citrus grandis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis oilUsed as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Pelargonium graveolens leaf oilAn essential oil used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil—High~0.25–0.4%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~4.3–5.2%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~0.65–0.95%est.
Hydroxypropyl starch phosphateHelps oil and water mix together and used to stabilize product formulationsMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Caprylhydroxamic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Hydrogenated coconut oil—3/5~1.5–1.8%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~6.1–7.5%est.
Decyl oleateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~1.7–2.1%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cetearyl alcohol~6.1–7.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Olea europaea fruit oil~4.3–5.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Cucurbita pepo seed oil~3.2–3.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Cucurbita pepo seed oil
Propylene glycol~2.3–2.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Cetyl alcohol~2–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Decyl oleate~1.7–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Decyl oleate
Hydrogenated coconut oil~1.5–1.8%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Hydrogenated coconut oil
Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Glyceryl stearate~1–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.8–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Cetearyl glucoside~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Cera alba~0.65–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba
Beeswax~0.55–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Beeswax
Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together and used to stabilize product formulations

More about Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate
Citrus grandis fruit extract~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Citrus limon peel oil~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Citrus aurantifolia oil~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Citrus grandis peel oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus grandis peel oil
Citrus aurantium dulcis oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis oil
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Cupressus sempervirens oil~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · high
Peg-35 castor oil~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-35 castor oil
Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Caprylhydroxamic acid~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Caprylhydroxamic acid
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Isohexadecane~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Glycerin~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Polysorbate 80~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80
Citric acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Limonene~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citral~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Citronellol~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Ingredient list view

Water, Cetearyl alcohol, Olea europaea fruit oil, Cucurbita pepo seed oil, Propylene glycol, Cetyl alcohol, Decyl oleate, Hydrogenated coconut oil, Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Cetearyl glucoside, Cera alba, Beeswax, Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, Citrus grandis fruit extract, Citrus limon peel oil, Citrus aurantifolia oil, Citrus grandis peel oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Cupressus sempervirens oil, Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil, Peg-35 castor oil, Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Caprylyl glycol, Caprylhydroxamic acid, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Isohexadecane, Glycerin, Polysorbate 80, Citric acid, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Citronellol, Geraniol

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Dermstore1.72 oz
$70.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Yon-Ka ParisPamplemousse Vitalizing Cream - Dry SkinYOUR PRODUCTAquamineralMaxithmooth Men's Face CreamLa Roche-PosayHyalu B5 Rich Anti-Wrinkle Care Repairing ReplumpingGUERLAINOrchide Impriale - The Cream
Match—42%41%40%
Price$70.00—$36.50−$33.50—
Shared key ingredients—3 of 43 of 42 of 4
Key difference—GluconolactonePanthenolAdenosine
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol—— Contains drying alcohol —
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
Yon-Ka Paris Pamplemousse Vitalizing Cream - Dry Skin
Yon-Ka ParisPamplemousse Vitalizing Cream - Dry Skin

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.