Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
- Evens skin tone
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Key actives
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Reduces the appearance of lines and wrinkles.
Source: Skinstore
This product contains ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, serine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Evens skin tone
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
This deeply rejuvenating and hydrating cream removes traces of facial fatigue.
Source: Skinstore
Does not contain the most effective ingredients for moisturization. The emollients (cetyl alcohol, decyl oleate) can help soften the upper layer of the skin. Keep in mind though that this product lacks humectants that attract water. You might want to use a separate product with ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin in addition (use before this product for the best results).
Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 62/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Potential irritants
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Comedogenic ingredients
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
All ingredients
Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Ingredient list view
Water, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Propylene glycol, Tea-stearate, Decyl oleate, Hydrogenated coconut oil, Cetyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii nut extract, Hydrolyzed elastin, Hydrolyzed milk protein, Sclerotium gum, Hydroxyproline, Serine, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Retinyl palmitate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Lactic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Citric acid
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Topical effects of N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline on ceramide synthesis and alleviation of pruritus
- Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin
- Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamics
- Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysis
- A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties
- New lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), suppresses senile lentigo through controlling of melanocytes-keratinocytes interaction
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin