What's In My Jar
Yon-Ka Paris Elastine Jour
Yon-Ka Paris

Yon-Ka Paris Elastine Jour

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Serine, Hydroxyproline + 3 more
May help
What the product description says
“rejuvenate”
Source: SkincareRX

This product contains serine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.9%
HydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.45–1%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.2–0.75%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.45%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.05–0.25%
Moisturizing
Decyl oleate, Cetyl alcohol + 9 more
Works
What the product description says
“comforting moisturizers”
Source: SkincareRX

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: butyrospermum parkii butter extract, cetyl alcohol.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

Decyl oleateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~2.2–3.3%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.5–2.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butter extractKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.3–2%
Hydrolyzed milk proteinKey activeEffect: Medium~0.8–1.25%
HydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: HighIs helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.45–1%
SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.9%
Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~4.7–7.1%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~3.6–5.5%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.35–0.85%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.2–0.75%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.05–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Retinyl palmitate
Medium risk
We flagged 6 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~3.6–5.5%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium0.2%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.2–0.75%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.05–0.25%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.01–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
4 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Hydrogenated coconut oil—3/5~1.9–2.8%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butter extractA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.3–2%est.
Tea-stearate—2/5~2.8–4.2%est.
Decyl oleateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~2.2–3.3%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Hydrogenated polyisobutene~4.7–7.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Propylene glycol~3.6–5.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Tea-stearate~2.8–4.2%
Comedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing
More about Tea-stearate
Decyl oleate~2.2–3.3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Decyl oleate
Hydrogenated coconut oil~1.9–2.8%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Hydrogenated coconut oil
Cetyl alcohol~1.5–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Butyrospermum parkii butter extract~1.3–2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter extract
Hydrolyzed elastin~1–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed elastin
Hydrolyzed milk protein~0.8–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Hydrolyzed milk protein
Sclerotium gum~0.5–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Hydroxyproline~0.45–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-aging

Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking

More about Hydroxyproline
Serine~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine
Glyceryl stearate~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Tocopheryl acetate0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Retinyl palmitate~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Methylparaben~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Methylparaben
Propylparaben~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Propylparaben
Lactic acid~0.05–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Citric acid~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Water, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Propylene glycol, Tea-stearate, Decyl oleate, Hydrogenated coconut oil, Cetyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii butter extract, Hydrolyzed elastin, Hydrolyzed milk protein, Sclerotium gum, Hydroxyproline, Serine, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Retinyl palmitate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Lactic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Citric acid

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Yon-Ka ParisElastine JourYOUR PRODUCTUltraLuxeHydrasoft Cream - Anti-AgingSimpleKind to Skin Hydrating Light Moisturiser PouchFilorgaOXYGEN-GLOW Perfecting Radiance CC Cream
Match—33%33%32%
Price—$96.00—$35.76
Shared key ingredients—1 of 41 of 42 of 4
Key difference—Lactic AcidMineral OilNiacinamide
Irritancy Medium Low Low Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 12 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticssemanticscholar.org
  2. 2
    Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Topical effects of N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline on ceramide synthesis and alleviation of pruritusncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
Yon-Ka Paris Elastine Jour
Yon-Ka ParisElastine Jour
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