Yon-Ka Paris Serum C20

Yon-Ka Paris Serum C20

Efficacy45/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Anti-aging
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
May help
What the product description says
“Our antioxidant face serum helps defend against environmental skin aging and supports the body’s collagen synthesis to help firm skin.”
Source: Yon-Ka Paris

This product contains ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~5.4–8%
Evens skin tone
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
May help
What the product description says
“Our powerful brightening face serum is infused with a potent, all-natural 20% Vitamin C stabilized for maximum efficacy and tolerability.”
Source: Yon-Ka Paris

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~5.4–8%
Moisturizing
Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil + 1 more
Works
What the product description says
“Apricot Kernel Oil, rich in phytosterols, helps moisturize and comfort skin.”
Source: Yon-Ka Paris

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: helianthus annuus seed oil, prunus armeniaca kernel oil.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

Prunus armeniaca kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~4.6–7%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~2.3–3.4%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate· EmollientEffect: LowA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~5.4–8%
Exfoliation
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Anti-blemish
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil + 2 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateKey activeEffect: HighA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~5.4–8%
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~4.6–7%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilEffect: LowA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin~0.55–1.35%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.35–0.8%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis oil + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~3.6–5.4%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis oilUsed as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~2.7–4%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~1–1.5%est.
Pelargonium graveolens leaf oilAn essential oil used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.95–1.4%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.55–1.35%est.
Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil—High~0.45–1.05%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~5.4–8%est.
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~4.6–7%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.35–0.8%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Brassica napus extract~23–34%
Formula
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~5.4–8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~4.6–7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil
Limonene~3.6–5.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citrus aurantium dulcis oil~2.7–4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~2.3–3.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Curcuma longa callus extract~1.5–2.2%
Formula
Punica granatum leaf cell extract~1.2–1.8%
Formula
Lavandula angustifolia oil~1–1.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil~0.95–1.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.55–1.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Cupressus sempervirens oil~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · high
Parfum~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Tocopheryl acetate~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Citral~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Linalool~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Geraniol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Citronellol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Ingredient list view

Brassica napus extract, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Curcuma longa callus extract, Punica granatum leaf cell extract, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Cupressus sempervirens oil, Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil, Parfum, Tocopheryl acetate, Citral, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Yon-Ka ParisSerum C20YOUR PRODUCTKORRESApothecary Wild Rose Brightening Absolute OilimmunoAdvanced Essence Oil WHPai SkincareStabilized Vitamin C 20% Brightening Booster
Match—63%59%58%
Price——$96.60$26.80
Shared key ingredients—3 of 32 of 32 of 3
Key difference—BisabololAlteromonas Ferment ExtractPrickly Pear Seed Oil
Irritancy High High Medium Low
Drying alcohol— Contains drying alcohol ——
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Product summary

"Yon-Ka Paris - Serum C20" could be helpful for: Evens skin tone, Anti-aging and Moisturizing, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 18 studies and safety reviews.

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Yon-Ka Paris Serum C20
Yon-Ka ParisSerum C20

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