Vanessa Megan

Marine Collagen Firming Night Cream

Name: Vanessa Megan - Marine Collagen Firming Night Cream
Brand: Vanessa Megan

Efficacy 37/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

7 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, mel.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: chondrus crispus extract, simmondsia chinensis seed oil.

BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Under-dosedA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.55–1.25%

CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.4–1%

CHONDRUS CRISPUS EXTRACTRole: Key activeRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.4–1%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.8–1.2%

ROSA RUBIGINOSA SEED OILRole: Key activePlant oil that due to the high content of linoleic acid can support skin's barrier function and reduce moisture loss~1.1–1.7%

SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OILRole: Key activeSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~25–37%

THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTERRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.55–1.25%

Anti-aging

2 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Weak evidence

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilRole: Key activeSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~25–37%

Olea europaea fruit oilRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~4.5–6.7%

MelRole: Key activeHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and attract water to it~1.9–2.8%

Rosa rubiginosa seed oilRole: Key activePlant oil that due to the high content of linoleic acid can support skin's barrier function and reduce moisture loss~1.1–1.7%

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.8–1.2%

Theobroma cacao seed butterRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.55–1.25%

Chondrus crispus extractRole: Key activeRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.4–1%

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oilRole: Key activeA plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritating~0.05–0.3%

Irritancy

11 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Rosa rubiginosa seed oilPlant oil that due to the high content of linoleic acid can support skin's barrier function and reduce moisture lossHigh~1.1–1.7%est.

Panax ginseng root extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.85%est.

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oilA plant oil that might somewhat help to neutralize free radicals. It could be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.3%est.

Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.3%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinLow81.7%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Low~25–37%est.

Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationLow~4.5–6.7%est.

Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationLow~2.6–3.9%est.

Leuconostoc ferment filtrateUsed as a preservativeLow~0.9–1.35%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Low~0.4–1%est.

Narcissus tazetta bulb extractMight contain compounds called dormins that in theory could help lighten skin and reduce hyperpigmentation, but solid research is lackingLow~0.15–0.65%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin

High risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~0.55–1.25%est.

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicalsHigh~0.55–1.25%est.

Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistencyHigh~0.4–1%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels