Ursa Major

Ursa Major Golden Hour Recovery Cream

Name: Ursa Major - Golden Hour Recovery Cream
Brand: Ursa Major

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

14 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

What the product description says

“Golden Hour Recovery Cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: galactoarabinan, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables.

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~5–7.5%

Limnanthes alba seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~1.5–2.3%

GalactoarabinanKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.3–1.9%

Ribes nigrum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~0.55–1.25%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2–3%

Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.5–1.15%

Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~1.1–1.7%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.2–4.7%

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~23–34%

Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.2–0.75%

Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~3–4.5%

Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~0.8–1.25%

Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.3–0.75%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.9%

Anti-aging

3 ingredients credited for this claim

Weak support

What the product description says

“Combats the visible signs of aging .”

Source: SmallFlower

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~1.5–2.3%

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~23–34%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

8 strong irritants: Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Santalum spicata wood oil + 6 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missingHigh~0.4–0.95%est.

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.85%est.

Santalum spicata wood oil—High~0.3–0.75%est.

Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.75%est.

Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.

Cymbopogon martini oilAromatic plant oil used in cosmetics as a fragrance. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.65%est.

Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.

Sodium anisateUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.6%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~23–34%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~2.7–4%est.

GalactoarabinanHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.3–1.9%est.

Ribes nigrum seed oilAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.Medium~0.55–1.25%est.

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lackingMedium~0.35–0.85%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.2–4.7%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~23–34%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

Helianthus annuus seed oil~5–7.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Glyceryl stearate citrate~3–4.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate

Cetearyl alcohol~3.2–4.7%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~2.7–4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Glycerin~2–3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Limnanthes alba seed oil~1.5–2.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient

More about Limnanthes alba seed oil

Galactoarabinan~1.3–1.9%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Galactoarabinan

Cetyl palmitate~1.1–1.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate

Undecylenic glycerides~0.9–1.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Undecylenic glycerides

Octyldodecanol~0.8–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol

Ribes nigrum seed oil~0.55–1.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.

More about Ribes nigrum seed oil

Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~0.5–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables

Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract~0.4–0.95%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing

More about Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract

Tocopherol~0.4–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.35–0.85%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract~0.35–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking

More about Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract

Santalum spicata wood oil~0.3–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Santalum spicata wood oil

Rosa damascena flower oil~0.3–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil

Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.2–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil

Cymbopogon martini oil~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Aromatic plant oil used in cosmetics as a fragrance. A likely irritant

More about Cymbopogon martini oil

Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract

Sodium phytate~0.15–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate

Sodium anisate~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Sodium anisate

Glyceryl caprylate~0.2–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate

Sclerotium gum~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum

Xanthan gum~0.1–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Alcohol~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Citric acid~0.05–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Ingredient list view

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Cetearyl alcohol, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Glycerin, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Galactoarabinan, Cetyl palmitate, Undecylenic glycerides, Octyldodecanol, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, Santalum spicata wood oil, Rosa damascena flower oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Cymbopogon martini oil, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Sodium phytate, Sodium anisate, Glyceryl caprylate, Sclerotium gum, Xanthan gum, Alcohol, Citric acid