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Tracie Martyn Face Resculpting Cream
Tracie Martyn

Tracie Martyn Face Resculpting Cream

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Tricaprylin, Squalane + 20 more
Works
What the product description says
“Deeply moisturizes and hydrates: we use natural black currant lipids, a natural omega 3 oil for effective moisturizing that far surpasses the effect of greasy mineral oil, allergenic nut oils and synthetic silicon formulas commonly used in creams.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: carnosine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, copernicia cerifera wax.

TricaprylinKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Can increase penetration of other ingredients~6.1–9.2%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~4.8–7.1%
Ribes nigrum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~3.8–5.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.3–3.5%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.8%
CarnitineKey activeEffect: Medium~1.2–1.7%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1–1.5%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.9–1.3%
Cucurbita pepo seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–1.25%
CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.5–1.15%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–1.15%
Copernicia cerifera waxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~0.4–0.9%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.4–1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.1–0.45%
Rosa damascena flower water· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~25–37%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.55–1.3%
Coenzyme aEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and dissolve other ingredients in a product~0.45–1%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.35–0.8%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.2–0.75%
Glyceryl undecylenate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulation~0.15–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.85%
Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.8–1.2%
Anti-aging
Carnosine, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 2 more
May help
What the product description says
“Lifts and Firms: a complex of ingredients including organic green tea, natural amino acids and enzymes help to improve the appearance of tired, dry and loose skin”
Source: Bluemercury

This product contains carnosine. There is some human evidence that this ingredient helps reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin elasticity and firmness, though it is smaller or less consistent than the evidence for the best anti-aging ingredients.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.5–1.15%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.55–1.3%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.85%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.4–0.95%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Carnosine + 7 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.55–1.3%
CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.5–1.15%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~25–37%
Ribes nigrum seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~3.8–5.8%
CaffeineEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes~0.45–1.05%
Rosa canina fruit oilEffect: Low, below effective doseA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.8–1.2%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.3–0.7%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.4–0.95%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.85%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Rosa damascena flower water, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~25–37%est.
Coco-glucosideUsed as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritatingHigh~1.8–2.7%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.7%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
Decyl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
Ribes nigrum seed oilAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.Medium~3.8–5.8%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1–1.5%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.9–1.3%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~0.8–1.2%est.
CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.4–0.95%est.
Glyceryl undecylenateHelps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.7%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.3–3.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Rosa damascena flower water~25–37%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Tricaprylin~6.1–9.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. Can increase penetration of other ingredients

More about Tricaprylin
Squalane~4.8–7.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Ribes nigrum seed oil~3.8–5.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.

More about Ribes nigrum seed oil
Cetearyl olivate~2.8–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Cetearyl alcohol~2.3–3.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Coco-glucoside~1.8–2.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Used as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritating

More about Coco-glucoside
Water~1.5–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Saccharide isomerate~1.2–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Sorbitan olivate~1.1–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.9–1.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Rosa canina fruit oil~0.8–1.2%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.55–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Trehalose~0.5–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Carnosine~0.5–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Cucurbita pepo seed oil~0.55–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Cucurbita pepo seed oil
Carnitine~1.2–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMattifyingMoisturizingAnti-blemish
More about Carnitine
Caffeine~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
De-puffingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes

More about Caffeine
Coenzyme a~0.45–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and dissolve other ingredients in a product

More about Coenzyme a
Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.4–0.95%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Tocopherol~0.35–0.85%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.4–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Decyl glucoside~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Decyl glucoside
Copernicia cerifera wax~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Copernicia cerifera wax
Glyceryl caprylate~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Glyceryl undecylenate~0.15–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulation

More about Glyceryl undecylenate
Glycerin~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ingredient list view

Rosa damascena flower water, Tricaprylin, Squalane, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Cetearyl olivate, Cetearyl alcohol, Coco-glucoside, Water, Saccharide isomerate, Sorbitan olivate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Trehalose, Carnosine, Cucurbita pepo seed oil, Carnitine, Caffeine, Coenzyme a, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Rosa damascena flower oil, Decyl glucoside, Copernicia cerifera wax, Glyceryl caprylate, Glyceryl undecylenate, Glycerin, Potassium sorbate, Xanthan gum

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Dermstore2.6 oz
$85.40 Out of stock
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$122.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Tracie MartynFace Resculpting CreamYOUR PRODUCTEveredenProtecting Baby Face Cream - No 3. Rich CreamRosacea CareNIGHT CREAMBABORHSR Lifting Cream Rich
Match—36%35%34%
Price$122.00$33.00−$89.00$13.09−$108.91$170.00+$48.00
Shared key ingredients—7 of 176 of 176 of 17
Key difference—PhytosphingosineGluconolactonePanthenol
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts ec.europa.eu
  2. 2
    In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Responseresearchgate.net
  3. 3
    Allergen of the Year—Alkyl Glucosidepracticeupdate.com
  4. 4
    Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care productssciencedirect.com
  5. 5
    Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamagencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacysciencedirect.com
Tracie Martyn Face Resculpting Cream
Tracie MartynFace Resculpting Cream
Buy at Bluemercury$122.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Bluemercury$122.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.