Sonya Dakar Ultima C Serum

Sonya Dakar Ultima C Serum

Efficacy50/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Evens skin tone
3-glyceryl ascorbate, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“New! 15% Vitamin C brightening and plumping serum is combined with hyaluronic acid to visibly reduce the appearance of dark spots and improve skin tone for a smoother and brighter complexion.”
Source: N/A

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: 3-glyceryl ascorbate

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

3-glyceryl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration~3.7–5.5%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~4.6–7%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.7%
Anti-aging
3-glyceryl ascorbate, Hyaluronic acid + 3 more
May help
What the product description says
“Combined with the power of hyaluronic acid to increase skin firmness, while visibly reducing fine lines and wrinkles by up to 35%*.”
Source: N/A

This product contains 3-glyceryl ascorbate. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

3-glyceryl ascorbateKey activeEffect: MediumA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration~3.7–5.5%
Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.4–0.9%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~4.6–7%
Lycium barbarum fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~0.3–0.7%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.7%
Moisturizing
3-glyceryl ascorbate, Glycerin + 6 more
Works

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": 3-glyceryl ascorbate, glycerin.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

3-glyceryl ascorbateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration~3.7–5.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.45–1.1%
Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.4–0.9%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~2.1–3.1%
Lecithin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2.1%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.55–1.25%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.7%
Lycium barbarum fruit extractUnder-dosedA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~0.3–0.7%
Exfoliation
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Anti-blemish
Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Not delivered

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.7%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.05–0.25%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 3-glyceryl ascorbate, Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract + 7 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (3-glyceryl ascorbate) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

3-glyceryl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration~3.7–5.5%
Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.35–0.85%
Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lacking~0.15–0.55%
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilEffect: LowAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation~0.1–0.35%
Hydrolyzed gardenia florida extractEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.05–0.2%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~4.6–7%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.05–0.25%
Lycium barbarum fruit extractUnder-dosedA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~0.3–0.7%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
13 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
3-glyceryl ascorbateA moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentrationHigh~3.7–5.5%est.
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~1–1.5%est.
Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extractA plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Sodium bisulfiteA preservativeHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Hydrolyzed gardenia florida extractUsed as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highMedium~4.6–7%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~2.1–3.1%est.
Caprylhydroxamic acidA preservativeMedium~0.8–1.25%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.55–1.25%est.
Lycium barbarum fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layerMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lackingMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate~4.6–7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

A derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high

More about Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
3-glyceryl ascorbate~3.7–5.5%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A moisturizing vitamin C derivative. It is considered to be one of the most stable ones. It is effective in neutralizing free radicals and can help to even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration

More about 3-glyceryl ascorbate
Propanediol~2.7–4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Pentylene glycol~2.1–3.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Xanthan gum~1.6–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Lecithin~1.4–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Sclerotium gum~1.2–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Pullulan~1–1.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Caprylhydroxamic acid~0.8–1.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Caprylhydroxamic acid
Caprylyl glycol~0.55–1.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Glycerin~0.45–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Hyaluronic acid~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can be irritating. It might contain a compound anthocyanin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract
Lycium barbarum fruit extract~0.3–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer

More about Lycium barbarum fruit extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.2–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lacking

More about Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract
Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
Sodium bisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative

More about Sodium bisulfite
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.05–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Hydrolyzed gardenia florida extract~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Hydrolyzed gardenia florida extract
Maltodextrin~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Sodium hydroxide~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Ingredient list view

Water, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, 3-glyceryl ascorbate, Propanediol, Pentylene glycol, Xanthan gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium gum, Pullulan, Caprylhydroxamic acid, Caprylyl glycol, Glycerin, Hyaluronic acid, Hibiscus sabdariffa flower extract, Lycium barbarum fruit extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Sodium bisulfite, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Hydrolyzed gardenia florida extract, Maltodextrin, Sodium hydroxide

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Sonya DakarUltima C SerumYOUR PRODUCTPink DolphinLulo Fruit Vitamin C Brightening Serum | Anti-Aging Skin Care Treatment | Dark Spots | Vitamin A, E & K | Smoothes, Brightens, & Nourishes | For Tighter, Softer, Glowing Skinmarie veroniqueC-Therapy SerumM-61ProSmooth Retinol Serum
Match—60%59%59%
Price—$25.39$120.00$94.00
Shared key ingredients—3 of 63 of 63 of 6
Key difference—Ferulic AcidTetrahexyldecyl AscorbateRetinol
Irritancy High Low Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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More alternatives: colibri skincare Vitamin C 20 BoosterSaint Jane Beauty Vitamin C Glow Drops - Brightening Serum with 20% Vitamin C Blend

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Product summary

"Sonya Dakar - Ultima C Serum" is effective for: Evens skin tone

This product could be helpful for: Anti-aging and Moisturizing, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Humectants (hyaluronic acid 0.40% - 0.90%, glycerin 0.45% - 1.10% and 3-glyceryl ascorbate 3.70% - 5.50%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 19 studies and safety reviews.

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Sonya Dakar Ultima C Serum
Sonya DakarUltima C Serum

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.