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Skin Design London Designer Balm - Healthy Skin Peel
Skin Design London

Skin Design London Designer Balm - Healthy Skin Peel

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Petrolatum, Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 + 15 more
Works well
What the product description says
“It is a thick, hydrating balm that leaves my skin hydrated, younger and glowing!”
Source: Cultbeauty

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dextran, yeast extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: copernicia cerifera wax, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: petrolatum, trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2

PetrolatumHero· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighOne of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss~22–33%
Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.35%
Canola oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin~5.7–8.6%
Copernicia cerifera waxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~5–7.5%
Yeast extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~2.6–3.9%
Rosa canina fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~2–3%
Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~1.5–2.3%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~1.4–2.2%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.2–1.8%
MelKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and attract water to it~0.2–0.8%
Lycium barbarum fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~0.15–0.6%
DextranKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar~0.05–0.3%
Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumA plant stem cell extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin~0.05–0.15%
Silk amino acidsKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumMight help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.01–0.05%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~3.4–5.1%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.55–1.3%
Garcinia mangostana fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.6%
Anti-aging
Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 2 more
May help
What the product description says
“Alongside this, legendary hydrator hyaluronic acid boosts moisture, plumping and hydrating skin for a youthful appearance, soy protein locks in moisture and gives a smoothing effect and, finally, rosehip oil – which is rich in fatty acids – protects against premature ageing and delivers further hydration.”
Source: Cultbeauty

This product contains trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2. There is some human evidence that this ingredient helps reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin elasticity and firmness, though it is smaller or less consistent than the evidence for the best anti-aging ingredients.

Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.35%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.55–1.3%
Lycium barbarum fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~0.15–0.6%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.1–0.4%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Yeast extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 10 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis leaf extract, lycium barbarum fruit extract, yeast extract) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is some human evidence for this effect in skin, though it is smaller or less consistent than the evidence for the best antioxidants.

Yeast extractKey activeEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~2.6–3.9%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.55–1.3%
Lycium barbarum fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~0.15–0.6%
Rosa canina fruit oilEffect: LowA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~2–3%
Aspalathus linearis leaf extractEffect: LowPlant extract that might have help to neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is skin is lacking~0.4–0.95%
Euterpe oleracea fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can have some anti-oxidant effect in skin~0.35–0.75%
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking~0.15–0.6%
Garcinia mangostana fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.6%
Aristotelia chilensis fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be used as a fragrance~0.1–0.5%
Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extractEffect: LowA plant stem cell extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin~0.05–0.15%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.1–0.4%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.1–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Rosa damascena extract, Parfum — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.2–0.75%est.
Garcinia mangostana fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
Aristotelia chilensis fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be used as a fragranceHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
Phenethyl alcoholA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.01–0.1%est.
Canola oilA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~5.7–8.6%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~3.4–5.1%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~2–3%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~1.5–2.3%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~1.4–2.2%est.
Euterpe oleracea fruit extractA plant extract that can have some anti-oxidant effect in skinMedium~0.35–0.75%est.
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lackingMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Lycium barbarum fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layerMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.1–0.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.1–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Petrolatum~22–33%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss

More about Petrolatum
Canola oil~5.7–8.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Canola oil
Copernicia cerifera wax~5–7.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Copernicia cerifera wax
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~3.4–5.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Yeast extract~2.6–3.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Yeast extract
Rosa canina fruit oil~2–3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Persea gratissima oil~1.5–2.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~1.4–2.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~1.2–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.55–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Aspalathus linearis leaf extract~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have help to neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is skin is lacking

More about Aspalathus linearis leaf extract
Euterpe oleracea fruit extract~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can have some anti-oxidant effect in skin

More about Euterpe oleracea fruit extract
Rosa damascena extract~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Aronia arbutifolia/aronia
Not recognized
Mel~0.2–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and attract water to it

More about Mel
Rosa damascena extract~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking

More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract
Lycium barbarum fruit extract~0.15–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer

More about Lycium barbarum fruit extract
Garcinia mangostana fruit extract~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Garcinia mangostana fruit extract
Aristotelia chilensis fruit extract~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be used as a fragrance

More about Aristotelia chilensis fruit extract
Morinda citrifolia fruit extract~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Morinda citrifolia fruit extract
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Phenethyl alcohol~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Phenethyl alcohol
Dextran~0.05–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar

More about Dextran
Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2~0.1–0.35%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2
Caprylyl alcohol~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Caprylyl alcohol
Parfum~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract~0.05–0.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant stem cell extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin

More about Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract
Xanthan gum~0.01–0.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ultramarines~0.01–0.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ultramarines
Silk amino acids~0.01–0.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Silk amino acids
Ingredient list view

Petrolatum, Canola oil, Copernicia cerifera wax, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Yeast extract, Rosa canina fruit oil, Persea gratissima oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Aspalathus linearis leaf extract, Euterpe oleracea fruit extract, Rosa damascena extract, Unknown, Mel, Rosa damascena extract, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Lycium barbarum fruit extract, Garcinia mangostana fruit extract, Aristotelia chilensis fruit extract, Morinda citrifolia fruit extract, Ascorbyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Phenethyl alcohol, Dextran, Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, Caprylyl alcohol, Parfum, Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract, Xanthan gum, Ultramarines, Silk amino acids

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Skin Design LondonDesigner Balm - Healthy Skin PeelYOUR PRODUCTEstée LauderMoisturiser Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face and Neck CremeEco Your SkinBotanical Vital Balm PlusevolutionofsmoothThe Hero
Match—48%40%38%
Price—$99.59—$4.99
Shared key ingredients—5 of 115 of 113 of 11
Key difference—Acetyl GlucosamineBeeswaxButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Canola Oilsciencedirect.com
  2. 2
    The natural yeast extract isolated by ethanol precipitation inhibits melanin synthesis by modulating tyrosinase activity and downregulating melanosome transferncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitaminsresearchgate.net
  4. 4
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
  6. 6
    Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
Skin Design London Designer Balm - Healthy Skin Peel
Skin Design LondonDesigner Balm - Healthy Skin Peel
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