Shu Uemura

Shu Uemura ultime8 sublime beauty oil in lotion

Name: Shu Uemura - ultime8 sublime beauty oil in lotion
Brand: Shu Uemura

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Enriched with collagen to fight signs of aging for supple and nourished skin.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.35–0.8%

Aminobutyric acidEffect: LowHas been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing~0.1–0.3%

Butyrospermum parkii oilEffect: Low~0.15–0.55%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.15–0.65%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%

Moisturizing

14 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Prep skin with this beauty oil formulated with a lotion formula that leaves skin moisturized for a smooth and flawless makeup application.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: aminobutyric acid, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, butyrospermum parkii oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: urea

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.05–0.3%

Aminobutyric acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHas been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing~0.1–0.3%

Butyrospermum parkii oilKey active· EmollientEffect: High~0.15–0.55%

Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.15–0.65%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.8–7.2%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.15–0.7%

Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriolKey activeEffect: HighA sugar-derived compound that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be able to stimulate synthesis of skin's own moisturizing factors, but solid research is lacking. It could be irritating~1.1–1.6%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.7%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.35–0.8%

Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.85–1.3%

Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethiconeEffect: LowHelp improve the product's texture~2.8–4.2%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.15–0.65%

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.2–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

5 strong irritants: Alcohol, Linalool + 3 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~4–6%est.

Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriolA sugar-derived compound that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be able to stimulate synthesis of skin's own moisturizing factors, but solid research is lacking. It could be irritatingHigh~1.1–1.6%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.85–1.3%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.75%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.

Lavandula angustifolia extractUsed for fragrance and contains volatile compounds that can irritate the skinHigh~0.1–0.5%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.01–0.1%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.15–0.7%est.

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.2–0.75%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.1%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.15–0.65%est.

Butyrospermum parkii oil—3/5~0.15–0.55%est.

Zea mays germ oil—2/5~0.3–0.7%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.15–0.7%est.

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Ingredients

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Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.8–7.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Alcohol~4–6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone~2.8–4.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Help improve the product's texture

More about Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone

Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane~2.2–3.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane

Potassium chloride~1.8–2.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Potassium chloride

Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol~1.1–1.6%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar-derived compound that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be able to stimulate synthesis of skin's own moisturizing factors, but solid research is lacking. It could be irritating

More about Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol

Propylene glycol~0.85–1.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Gellan gum~0.55–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to improve the product texture

More about Gellan gum

Xanthan gum~0.4–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Adenosine~0.35–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Linalool~0.3–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Ethylcellulose~0.3–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ethylcellulose

Geraniol~0.2–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Zea mays germ oil~0.3–0.7%

Comedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

More about Zea mays germ oil

Squalane~0.3–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Glycine soja oil~0.15–0.7%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.2–0.75%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.15–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.15–0.65%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Butyrospermum parkii oil~0.15–0.55%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

More about Butyrospermum parkii oil

Yucha seed oil

Not recognized

Lavandula angustifolia extract~0.1–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used for fragrance and contains volatile compounds that can irritate the skin

More about Lavandula angustifolia extract

Hybrida oil

Not recognized

Tocopherol~0.1–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Aminobutyric acid~0.1–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Has been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing

More about Aminobutyric acid

Urea~0.05–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea

Potassium chloride~0.05–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Potassium chloride

Citric acid~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Parfum~0.01–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Alcohol, Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, Potassium chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, Propylene glycol, Gellan gum, Xanthan gum, Adenosine, Linalool, Ethylcellulose, Geraniol, Zea mays germ oil, Squalane, Glycine soja oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Butyrospermum parkii oil, Unknown, Lavandula angustifolia extract, Unknown, Tocopherol, Aminobutyric acid, Urea, Potassium chloride, Citric acid, Parfum

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Shu Uemura - ultime8 sublime beauty oil in lotion" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Shu Uemura - ultime8 sublime beauty oil in lotion ticks this box. Urea, aminobutyric acid, glycerin and propylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Butyrospermum parkii oil, carthamus tinctorius seed oil, glycine soja oil and squalane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

Adenosine 0.35% - 0.80%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, butyrospermum parkii butter and jojoba oil

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.