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Retrouvé Balancing Face Oil
Retrouvé

Retrouvé Balancing Face Oil

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
Bakuchiol, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate + 1 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“With a lightweight,fast-absorbing texture,this luxurious oil leaves skin feeling hydrated and satiny-smooth.Key Benefits Replenishes the skin's moisture reservoirs and helps to prevent trans epidermal water loss Aids in protection against free radicals and environmental stressors Improves skin elasticity and helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for plumper, more radiant skin”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains bakuchiol, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~3.8–5.6%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~9.8–14.8%
UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~2.6–4%
Moisturizing
Squalane, Ubiquinone + 1 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Balancing Face Oil”
From product name

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: squalane, c12-15 alkyl benzoate.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~26–39%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~2.6–4%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~2.6–3.9%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Bakuchiol, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate + 2 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (bakuchiol, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~3.8–5.6%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~9.8–14.8%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~2.6–4%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: LowA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~5.1–7.7%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Bakuchiol, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: bakuchiol, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~3.8–5.6%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~9.8–14.8%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · Bakuchiol
Good evidence

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains bakuchiol.

BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~3.8–5.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Lavandula angustifolia oil, Rosmarinus officinalis extract
Medium risk
We flagged 6 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis extract—High~0.15–0.5%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~9.8–14.8%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~5.1–7.7%est.
BakuchiolA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationMedium~3.8–5.6%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~1–1.5%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Royal Tulip Vitamin C Facial Oil
Bloomeffects Royal Tulip Vitamin C Facial Oil
CheaperHigher efficacy · 100/10094% match
$85.00
Advanced Anti-Ageing Replenishing Oil
Glowbiotics MD Advanced Anti-Ageing Replenishing Oil
Higher efficacy · 100/10077% match
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Squalane~26–39%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~9.8–14.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Tocopheryl acetate~5.1–7.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Bakuchiol~3.8–5.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

More about Bakuchiol
Ubiquinone~2.6–4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~2.6–3.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~1–1.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Ormenis multicaulis (moroccan
Not recognized
Chamomilla recutita oil~0.45–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Chamomilla recutita oil
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Rosmarinus officinalis extract~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Rosmarinus officinalis extract
Ingredient list view

Squalane, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Tocopheryl acetate, Bakuchiol, Ubiquinone, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Unknown, Chamomilla recutita oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Rosmarinus officinalis extract

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Bluemercury
$190.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
RetrouvéBalancing Face OilYOUR PRODUCTBloomeffectsRoyal Tulip Vitamin C Facial OilGlowbiotics MDAdvanced Anti-Ageing Replenishing OilMario BadescuVitamin C Cream
Match—94%77%77%
Price$190.00$85.00−$105.00—$15.30−$174.70
Shared key ingredients—4 of 44 of 42 of 4
Key difference—NiacinamidePalmitoyl Tripeptide-38Niacinamide
Irritancy Medium Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 5 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamagencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacysciencedirect.com
  3. 3
    Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skinresearchgate.net
  4. 4
    Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageingonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    A dermocosmetic containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract and mannitol improves the efficacy of adapalene in patients with acne vulgaris: result from a controlled randomized trialncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Retrouvé Balancing Face Oil
RetrouvéBalancing Face Oil
Buy at Bluemercury$190.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Bluemercury$190.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.