ReFa FACE-UP CREAM

ReFa FACE-UP CREAM

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Ceramide as, Ceramide np + 15 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“FACE-UP CREAM”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alcaligenes polysaccharides, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: simmondsia chinensis seed oil, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl decapeptide-3, ceramide as, ceramide np

Zea mays oilKey activeEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~1–1.3%
Alcaligenes polysaccharidesKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%
Ceramide asHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.45–0.7%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.45–0.7%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.5–5.5%
Glyceryl glucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help to restore skin barrier function and soften its upper layer~0.2–0.4%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~1.4–1.8%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.9–2.3%
Acetyl decapeptide-3HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~1.6–1.9%
Polyglyceryl-10 stearateEffect: LowHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~3–3.6%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.25–0.45%
Alaria esculenta extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.35–0.6%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.65–1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.55–0.8%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Acetyl decapeptide-3, Retinyl palmitate + 3 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains acetyl decapeptide-3, retinyl palmitate. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Acetyl decapeptide-3Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.75–1.15%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.65–1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.55–0.8%
Alaria esculenta extractEffect: Low, below effective doseWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.35–0.6%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Retinyl palmitate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Moderate evidence

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl palmitate.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.75–1.15%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.65–1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Retinyl palmitate
Medium risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.75–1.15%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~1.6–1.9%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~1.4–1.8%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.65–1%est.
Acacia senegal gumHelps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Peg-30 dipolyhydroxystearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Glyceryl behenateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Polyglyceryl-10 stearateHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.1–0.25%est.
T-butyl alcoholUsed to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritatingMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Zea mays oilA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function3/5~1–1.3%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.5–5.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Isotridecyl isononanoate~4.1–5%
Formula
Octyldodecanol~3–3.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~2.2–2.7%
Formula
Squalane~1.9–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~1.6–1.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~1.4–1.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Zea mays oil~1–1.3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Zea mays oil
Retinyl palmitate~0.75–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.65–1%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Tocopherol~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ceramide as~0.45–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide as
Ceramide np~0.45–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Alcaligenes polysaccharides~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Alcaligenes polysaccharides
Crocus chrysanthus bulb extract~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Alaria esculenta extract~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract
Acetyl decapeptide-3~0.3–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl decapeptide-3
Methyl carboxymethylphenyl aminocarboxypropylphosphonate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Cholesteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Butylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Acacia senegal gum~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product texture

More about Acacia senegal gum
Glyceryl glucoside~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help to restore skin barrier function and soften its upper layer

More about Glyceryl glucoside
Octyldodecyl xyloside~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Octyldodecyl xyloside
Peg-30 dipolyhydroxystearate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-30 dipolyhydroxystearate
Glyceryl behenate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl behenate
Polyglyceryl-6 octastearate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Polyglyceryl-6 octastearate
Dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate
Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Polyglyceryl-10 stearate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-10 stearate
Silver oxide~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Silver oxide
Phytic acid~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Pentasodium pentetate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps preserve the product formulation

More about Pentasodium pentetate
Sodium chloride~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
T-butyl alcohol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritating

More about T-butyl alcohol
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Isotridecyl isononanoate, Octyldodecanol, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Squalane, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Zea mays oil, Retinyl palmitate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Ceramide as, Ceramide np, Alcaligenes polysaccharides, Crocus chrysanthus bulb extract, Alaria esculenta extract, Acetyl decapeptide-3, Methyl carboxymethylphenyl aminocarboxypropylphosphonate, Cholesteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, Butylene glycol, Acacia senegal gum, Glyceryl glucoside, Octyldodecyl xyloside, Peg-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Glyceryl behenate, Polyglyceryl-6 octastearate, Dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Silver oxide, Phytic acid, Pentasodium pentetate, Sodium chloride, T-butyl alcohol, Phenoxyethanol

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Product summary

"ReFa - FACE-UP CREAM" has a good moisturizing formula. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Alcaligenes polysaccharides, glycerin, glyceryl glucoside and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide np, alcaligenes polysaccharides, simmondsia chinensis seed oil, squalane and macadamia ternifolia seed oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.75% - 1.15%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • As a plus, this moisturizer also contains ceramides (ceramide np 0.45% - 0.70% and ceramide as 0.45% - 0.70%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl decapeptide-3 0.30% - 0.55%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

Irritation risk

There are actives in this product that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 50.00$ in the United States and for 60.00CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

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ReFa FACE-UP CREAM
ReFaFACE-UP CREAM

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.