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Ráya COLLAGEN-ELASTIN CREAM RAYA SPA
Ráya

Ráya COLLAGEN-ELASTIN CREAM RAYA SPA

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
23 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“COLLAGEN-ELASTIN CREAM RAYA SPA”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, aspartic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, carthamus tinctorius seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, panthenol

Triticum vulgare germ oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).~0.45–1.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.5–5.2%
GlycosaminoglycansKey active· EmollientEffect: HighLong sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.95%
Mangifera indica seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.75%
Palmitoyl oligopeptideHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.1%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–1%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.3–0.7%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.2–3.3%
SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.6–1.35%
AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.6–1.35%
Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.05%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~4.6–6.9%
FructoseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.6%
Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–1.15%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~1.2–1.9%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.6–2.3%
CollagenKey activeEffect: MediumCannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products~0.35–0.8%
Decyl oleateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.3–6.5%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.3–0.75%
Hydrolyzed vegetable proteinKey activeEffect: Medium~0.4–0.95%
Aloe barbadensis extract· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~23–34%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.9–4.3%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.7%
Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“Soothes and softens the skin, helps to improve firmness and elasticity. Collagen-Elastin Cream (401) | RAYA”
Source: N/A

This product contains aspartic acid, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.05%
Palmitoyl oligopeptideKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1.1%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–1%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.75%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.2–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Hexyl nicotinate, Retinyl palmitate
Medium risk
We flagged 8 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hexyl nicotinateMight be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin rednessHigh~0.5–1.15%est.
Panax ginseng root extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Aloe barbadensis extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~23–34%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.2–0.75%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.3–0.75%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Triticum vulgare germ oilA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).3/5~0.45–1.1%est.
Zea mays kernel extract—3/5~0.3–0.7%est.
Decyl oleateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~4.3–6.5%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Aloe barbadensis extract~23–34%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis extract
Gel
Not recognized
Decyl oleate~4.3–6.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Decyl oleate
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~4.6–6.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Glycerin~3.5–5.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Glyceryl stearate~2.9–4.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Squalane~2.2–3.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Cetyl alcohol~1.6–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Glucose~1.2–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Fructose~1.1–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructose
Sucrose~0.6–1.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose
Alanine~0.6–1.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine
Glutamic acid~0.5–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid
Aspartic acid~0.45–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid
Hexyl nicotinate~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
De-puffing

Might be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin redness

More about Hexyl nicotinate
Triticum vulgare germ oil~0.45–1.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).

More about Triticum vulgare germ oil
Hydrolyzed vegetable protein~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Hydrolyzed vegetable protein
Palmitoyl oligopeptide~0.45–1.1%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl oligopeptide
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.4–1%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Soluble
Not recognized
Collagen~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products

More about Collagen
Hydrolyzed elastin~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed elastin
Panthenol~0.3–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Panax ginseng root extract~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating

More about Panax ginseng root extract
Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum
Allantoin~0.15–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Retinyl palmitate~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Zea mays kernel extract~0.3–0.7%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Zea mays kernel extract
Mangifera indica seed butter~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Mangifera indica seed butter
Olea europaea fruit oil~0.3–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Butter~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Butter
Glycosaminoglycans~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Long sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glycosaminoglycans
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Fragrant oil, chlorophyll
Not recognized
Daucus carota fruit oil~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Daucus carota fruit oil
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Citric acid~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Aloe barbadensis extract, Unknown, Decyl oleate, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Glycerin, Glyceryl stearate, Squalane, Cetyl alcohol, Glucose, Fructose, Sucrose, Alanine, Glutamic acid, Aspartic acid, Hexyl nicotinate, Triticum vulgare germ oil, Hydrolyzed vegetable protein, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Unknown, Collagen, Hydrolyzed elastin, Panthenol, Panax ginseng root extract, Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum, Allantoin, Retinyl palmitate, Ascorbyl palmitate, Zea mays kernel extract, Mangifera indica seed butter, Olea europaea fruit oil, Butter, Glycosaminoglycans, Phenoxyethanol, Unknown, Daucus carota fruit oil, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Citric acid

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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "Ráya - COLLAGEN-ELASTIN CREAM RAYA SPA" works well for moisturizing the skin. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (panthenol, alanine, aspartic acid, fructose and glutamic acid) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, carthamus tinctorius seed oil, glycosaminoglycans, triticum vulgare germ oil and squalane) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.20% - 0.75%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.40% - 1.00% and palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.45% - 1.10%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: allantoin

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains actives that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Combination of amino acids reduces pigmentation in B16F0 melanoma cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proofncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmnessncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    The effects of topically applied hexyl nicotinate lotion on the cutaneous blood flow in patients with Raynaud's phenomenonncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Ráya COLLAGEN-ELASTIN CREAM RAYA SPA
RáyaCOLLAGEN-ELASTIN CREAM RAYA SPA
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