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Philosophy Take A Deep Breath Night Oil-Free Detoxifying Gel-Balm
Philosophy

Philosophy Take A Deep Breath Night Oil-Free Detoxifying Gel-Balm

Efficacy58/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
8 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“The antioxidant/anti-pollution complex, featuring a natural yeast extract, helps support skin's natural nighttime detoxification process, fight visible signs of aging, and leave skin feeling recovered from daily aggressors.”
Source: Sephora CA

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: creatine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.3–0.55%
Magnesium aluminum silicateEffect: LowMight be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulation~0.2–0.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.4–3%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.15–0.3%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.4%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.2–0.4%
Moisturizing
20 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“An oil-free, lightweight gel-balm formula that invigorates and hydrates skin while you sleep.”
Source: Sephora CA

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: biosaccharide gum-1, faex.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.4–3%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4–4.8%
FaexKey active· HumectantEffect: HighYeast extract. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.3–0.6%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.9–7.3%
Glucosyl hesperidinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumMight be able to neutralize free radicals in skin. Also works as a humectant~0.2–0.35%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.5–0.8%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.45–0.7%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.2–0.35%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.1–3.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.35%
Butyrospermum parkii butter extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.95–1.15%
Yeast extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.2–0.35%
CyclohexasiloxaneEffect: Low, below effective doseA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.4%
Evens skin tone
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“Dullness and uneven texture If you want to know more.”
Source: Sephora CA

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.5–0.8%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.15–0.3%
Yeast extractEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.2–0.35%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.4%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 15 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (creatine) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.3–0.55%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%
Coffea arabica seed extractEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.2–0.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.4–3%
Glucosyl hesperidinEffect: LowMight be able to neutralize free radicals in skin. Also works as a humectant~0.2–0.35%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.5–0.8%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.15–0.3%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%
Yeast extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.2–0.35%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.4%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.55–0.85%
Hordeum vulgare extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Avoid if you are sensitive to gluten~0.25–0.45%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.2–0.35%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.35–0.65%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 strong irritants: Parfum, Limonene + 8 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 27 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Citrus aurantium amara peel extract—High~0.2–0.35%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.9–7.3%est.
Peg-240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 etherHelps create a gel-like product textureMedium~1.8–2.3%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.35–0.65%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Hordeum vulgare extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Avoid if you are sensitive to glutenMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~2.4–3%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butter extractA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.95–1.15%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.9–7.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~4–4.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~2.4–3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Peg-240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether~1.8–2.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps create a gel-like product texture

More about Peg-240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether
Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate~1.6–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Polysorbate 20~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Butyrospermum parkii butter extract~0.95–1.15%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter extract
Bisabolol~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.5–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein
Cetearyl olivate~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Cyclopentasiloxane~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Sorbitan olivate~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Creatine~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine
Parfum~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Dimethiconol~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Lecithin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Cyclohexasiloxane~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Adenosine~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Faex~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Yeast extract. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Faex
Yeast extract~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationReduces irritationEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Yeast extract
Peg-8~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Glucosyl hesperidin~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might be able to neutralize free radicals in skin. Also works as a humectant

More about Glucosyl hesperidin
Tocopherol~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Limonene~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1
Benzyl salicylate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Alcohol denat.~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Alcohol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Hordeum vulgare extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Avoid if you are sensitive to gluten

More about Hordeum vulgare extract
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Sorbic acid~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.25–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Coffea arabica seed extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Coffea arabica seed extract
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Pongamia pinnata seed extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Pongamia pinnata seed extract
Citral~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Citronellol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Angelica archangelica root extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Angelica archangelica root extract
Citrus aurantium amara peel extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium amara peel extract
Maltodextrin~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Citric acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Magnesium aluminum silicate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-aging

Might be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and, when combined with zinc carbonate and malonic acid, reducing fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating elastin production. Also helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Magnesium aluminum silicate
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ascorbic acid~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Farnesol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Sclerotium gum~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Bht~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Fd&c
Not recognized
Ci 19140~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140
Ci 42090~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Peg-240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Butyrospermum parkii butter extract, Bisabolol, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Cetearyl olivate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sorbitan olivate, Tocopheryl acetate, Creatine, Parfum, Dimethiconol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Lecithin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Hydrogenated lecithin, Disodium edta, Adenosine, Faex, Yeast extract, Peg-8, Sodium hydroxide, Glucosyl hesperidin, Tocopherol, Limonene, Biosaccharide gum-1, Benzyl salicylate, Alcohol denat., Chlorphenesin, Alcohol, Hordeum vulgare extract, Ascorbyl palmitate, Sorbic acid, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Coffea arabica seed extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pongamia pinnata seed extract, Citral, Citronellol, Angelica archangelica root extract, Citrus aurantium amara peel extract, Maltodextrin, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Citric acid, Magnesium aluminum silicate, Xanthan gum, Ascorbic acid, Farnesol, Caprylyl glycol, Sclerotium gum, Bht, Unknown, Ci 19140, Ci 42090

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Sephora AU
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PhilosophyTake A Deep Breath Night Oil-Free Detoxifying Gel-BalmYOUR PRODUCTVitabrid USWrinkle Cream: Anti-Aging Face Brightening | Vitabrid USSkinfoodGold Caviar EmulsionTHE PURE LOTUSJeju Lotus Leaf Revitalizing Cream
Match—56%56%55%
Price$45.00$70.00+$25.00$34.00−$11.00$28.90−$16.10
Shared key ingredients—6 of 165 of 165 of 16
Key difference—Copper Tripeptide-1Ceramide ApPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol — Contains drying alcohol —
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 24 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
  3. 3
    Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activityonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active componentsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Safety Assessment of Soy Peptides as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  6. 6
    Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjectsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Philosophy Take A Deep Breath Night Oil-Free Detoxifying Gel-Balm
PhilosophyTake A Deep Breath Night Oil-Free Detoxifying Gel-Balm
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