Philosophy Microdelivery Resurfacing Peel

Philosophy Microdelivery Resurfacing Peel

Efficacy91/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Evens skin tone
Lactic acid, Salicylic acid + 2 more
Works well
What the product description says
“This revolutionary dual phase treatment rapidly replenishes with skin-brightening vitamin c and skin-firming peptides to help smooth rough texture, even skin tone and minimize the appearance of fine lines.”
Source: Ulta

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: lactic acid, salicylic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~4.4–6.6%
Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~1.25–2.5%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.3–0.7%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.45%
Exfoliation
Lactic acid, Salicylic acid + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Microdelivery Resurfacing Peel”
Source: Ulta

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: lactic acid, salicylic acid.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~4.4–6.6%
Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~1.25–2.5%
Retinyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.45%
Anti-aging
Lactic acid, Palmitoyl oligopeptide + 3 more
May help
What the product description says
“This revolutionary dual phase treatment rapidly replenishes with skin-brightening vitamin c and skin-firming peptides to help smooth rough texture, even skin tone and minimize the appearance of fine lines.”
Source: Ulta

This product contains lactic acid, palmitoyl oligopeptide. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~4.4–6.6%
Palmitoyl oligopeptideKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.55%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.3–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.45%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Lactic acid + 7 more
Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: lactic acid, caprylyl glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, ethylhexyl palmitate.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl oligopeptide

Palmitoyl oligopeptideHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.55%
Lactic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~4.4–6.6%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.45–1%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.75%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.15–0.6%
Peg-6· HumectantEffect: LowHelps to dissolve other ingredients and attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1–1.6%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.35–0.75%
Tribehenin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.55%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Salicylic acid, Retinyl palmitate
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: salicylic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~1.25–2.5%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Retinyl palmitate, Parfum + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~1.25–2.5%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~4.4–6.6%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.5–1.2%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~1.5–2.2%est.
Oleth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–1.3%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.35–0.8%est.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.15–0.6%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.45–1%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Lactic acid~4.4–6.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Hydroxyethylcellulose~3.8–5.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Salicylic acid~1.25–2.5%
Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishExfoliationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Linoleamidopropyl pg-dimonium chloride phosphate~2.1–3.1%
Formula
1,2-hexanediol~0.5–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Caprylyl glycol~1.5–2.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Polyquaternium-10~1.3–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish

More about Polyquaternium-10
Peg-6~1–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to dissolve other ingredients and attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Peg-6
Sodium bicarbonate~1–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the product pH

More about Sodium bicarbonate
Oleth-20~0.55–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Oleth-20
Glyceryl stearate se~0.45–1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Silica~0.55–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Tocopheryl acetate~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
1,2-hexanediol~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Caprylyl glycol~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high

More about Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Tocopherol~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Beta-carotene~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Retinyl palmitate~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.15–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Parfum~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Palmitoyl oligopeptide~0.15–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl oligopeptide
Tribehenin~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tribehenin
Sorbitan isostearate~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Limonene~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Bht~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Ingredient list view

Water, Lactic acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Salicylic acid, Linoleamidopropyl pg-dimonium chloride phosphate, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Polyquaternium-10, Peg-6, Sodium bicarbonate, Oleth-20, Glyceryl stearate se, Silica, Tocopheryl acetate, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Tocopherol, Beta-carotene, Retinyl palmitate, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Parfum, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Tribehenin, Sorbitan isostearate, Limonene, Bht

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PhilosophyMicrodelivery Resurfacing PeelYOUR PRODUCTKerstin FlorianCorrecting At-Home Professional Peel 50 pcNorevaAcnomega 200BABORREFINE RX AHA 10+ 10 Peeling Gel
Match—85%80%80%
Price—$73.35$24.95—
Shared key ingredients—3 of 54 of 52 of 5
Key difference—Glycolic AcidGlycolic Acid3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Irritancy High Low Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop

More alternatives: CeraVe Blemish Control Gel Moisturiser with 2% Salicylic Acid & Niacinamide for Blemish-Prone SkinMALIN + GOETZ Salicylic Gel

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Product summary

"Philosophy - Microdelivery Resurfacing Peel" is effective for: Exfoliation, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemish and Moisturizing

This product could be helpful for: Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product contains acids (lactic acid 2.20% - 2.70%). Their concentration is low, and they will not have a strong exfoliating effect. Instead, they work to support the skin natural acid mantle and to attract water (as humectants). Lactic acid is particularly good in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin and improving the skin barrier.
  • This product includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.25% - 0.40%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • Peptides (palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.30% - 0.50%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. They might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Salicylic acid (1.10% - 1.40%). This is an oil-soluble exfoliating acid. Because of this property, it can work inside pores and help reduce the congestion. It has an anti-inflammatory effect and is used to treat acne. Because it is a quite strong exfoliator, be careful with using this product too often: it could result in over-exfoliation.
  • Humectants (lactic acid 2.20% - 2.70%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails for 95.00CA$ in Canada and for 72.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

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Philosophy Microdelivery Resurfacing Peel
PhilosophyMicrodelivery Resurfacing Peel

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