PRODUCT REVIEW
Peter Thomas Roth Potent-CTM Brightening Vitamin C Moisturizer
Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
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Can it cause trouble?
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Works for
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Clinical Results Based on a 4-week clinically measured study on 30 women, ranging in age from 36 to 65 , Clinically shown to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin tone Based on a 1-week consumer-perception study on 30 women, ranging in age from 36 to 65 , 97% agreed skin felt nourished and more even-textured , 90% agreed skin felt plumped and hydrated
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
7.3% -
8.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
carnosine
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
ferulic acid
0.6% -
0.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Clinical Results Based on a 4-week clinically measured study on 30 women, ranging in age from 36 to 65 , Clinically shown to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin tone Based on a 1-week consumer-perception study on 30 women, ranging in age from 36 to 65 , 97% agreed skin felt nourished and more even-textured , 90% agreed skin felt plumped and hydrated
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
7.3% -
8.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
ferulic acid
0.6% -
0.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
lactic acid
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
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Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Potent-CTM Brightening Vitamin C Moisturizer
sodium hyaluronate
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
sodium lactate
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
sodium pca
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
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Anti-oxidation
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
7.3% -
8.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
ferulic acid
0.6% -
0.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
carnosine
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Potential irritants
zingiber officinale root extract
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
alcohol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
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Comodogenic ingredients
butyrospermum parkii butter
0.5% -
0.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
myristic acid
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic
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User reviews (0)
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
gluconolactone
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing,
Exfoliation,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-oxidation
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
ferulic acid
0.6% -
0.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Anti-inflammatory,
Evens skin tone
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
Show more
Potential irritants
zingiber officinale root extract
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
alcohol
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
butyrospermum parkii butter
0.5% -
0.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
myristic acid
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic
Show more
All ingredients
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
7.3% -
8.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Evens skin tone
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
propanediol
4.3% -
5.3%
Irritation risk:
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
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Ingredient list view
Water, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Propanediol, C9-12 alkane, Glycerin, Tocopheryl acetate, Behenyl alcohol, Palmitic acid, Cetyl palmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 stearate, Stearic acid, Stearyl alcohol, Oleic acid, Soy acid, Ferulic acid, Brassica oleracea acephala leaf extract, Olea europaea fruit extract, Hydrolyzed collagen, Elastin, Zingiber officinale root extract, Lactic acid, Ceramide np, Sodium hyaluronate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Wheat amino acids, Glycine soja sterols, Saccharomyces ferment, Jojoba esters, Vegetable oil, Glyceryl stearate, Gluconolactone, Calcium gluconate, Sodium benzoate, Sodium pca, Sodium stearoyl lactylate, Myristic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium lactate, Lauroyl lysine, Arachidic acid, Lauric acid, Potassium sorbate, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan, Histidine hcl, Carnosine, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Arachidyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Unknown, Alcohol, Xanthan gum, Carbomer, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium edta, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Unknown, Ci 15985, Unknown, Ci 19140
Sources
- Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
- Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0168365995000887
- Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Property
- Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin
- Antioxidant Properties of Ferulic Acid and Its Possible Application
- Some phytochemical, pharmacological and toxicological properties of ginger (Zingiber officinale Roscoe): A review of recent research
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne
- The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoaging
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative study
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
- Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acids
- An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patients
- Aging Skin: Causes, Treatments, and Prevention
- Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids
- Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Provide Conditioning Effects to Skin Without Increasing Sensitivity to UV Light
- The fatty acid profile of the skin surface lipid layer in papulopustular rosacea
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of α-Amino Acids as Used in Cosmetics
- Histidine and/or Histidine Derivative for the Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Diseases
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products