Peter Thomas Roth

AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel

Name: Peter Thomas Roth - AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel
Brand: Peter Thomas Roth

Efficacy 95/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 5 of 5 advertised claims delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Anti-aging

GLYCOLIC ACID at ~5.9–7.3%

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

GLYCOLIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~5.9–7.3%

Salicylic acidRole: Key activeUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)2%

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.7–3.3%

ArginineRole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~2.2–2.7%

IsododecaneRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%

Evens skin tone

GLYCOLIC ACID at ~5.9–7.3% + 1 more curated active

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid, salicylic acid

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

SALICYLIC ACIDRole: HeroUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)2%

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.7–3.3%

ArginineRole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~2.2–2.7%

IsododecaneRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%

Anti-blemish

SALICYLIC ACID at 2% + 1 more curated active

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: salicylic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.7–3.3%

ArginineRole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~2.2–2.7%

IsododecaneRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%

Exfoliation

2 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, salicylic acid.

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.7–3.3%

ArginineRole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~2.2–2.7%

IsododecaneRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%

Moisturizing

2 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, isododecane.

ARGININERole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~2.2–2.7%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.7–3.3%

Glycolic acidRole: Key activeAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~5.9–7.3%

IsododecaneRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%

Irritancy

10 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High2%

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~11–13%est.

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~5.9–7.3%est.

Arnica montana flower extractA plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skinHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesLow~1.1–1.4%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinLow~0.65–1%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeLow~0.3–0.6%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.05–0.1%est.

Comedogenic

Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients

Low risk

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels