Paula's choice

Paula's choice Smoothing Primer Serum SPF 15

Name: Paula's choice - Smoothing Primer Serum SPF 15
Brand: Paula's choice

SPF 15Efficacy62/100IrritancyMedium·5 UV filters

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection

SPF 15 · 5 UV filters · Broad spectrum

Weak protectionSPF under 30

SPF 15Broad spectrumChemical filtersNo white cast

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection, but it is weak. We recommend to use a broad spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30.

UV spectrum

UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Octinoxate

Homosalate

Octisalate

Avobenzone

FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount

Butyloctyl SalicylateUVBA synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its own~4.5–6.8%

OctinoxateEthylhexyl MethoxycinnamateUVBOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating6%

HomosalateUVB Photo-stable A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation4%

OctisalateEthylhexyl SalicylateUVBOctisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen4%

AvobenzoneButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneUVA1Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.2%

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Anti-aging

Retinyl palmitate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Moderate evidence

What the product description says

“This unique formula’s silky serum texture softly blurs fine lines and large pores for a younger-looking, smoother complexion.”

Source: Paula's Choice AUS

This product contains retinyl palmitate. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works. The biggest anti-aging effect in this product comes from sun protection. Sun damage is the main factor causing early signs of skin aging. We, however, do not recommend using this product as a sunscreen because the protection it offers is not strong enough).

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~1–1.6%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.5–1.2%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract + 4 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis leaf extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.5–1.2%

Chlorella vulgaris extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.45–1.05%

Coffea arabica seed extractEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin~2–3%

BisabololEffect: LowAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~2.7–4%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~1.4–2.1%

Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.15–0.65%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · Retinyl palmitate, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract + 1 more

Moderate evidence

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, retinyl palmitate.

The biggest effect for evening out skin tone in this product comes from sun protection. Sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations. This is why sun protection is the best strategy for maintaining an even skin tone. We, however, do not recommend using this product as a sunscreen because the protection it offers is not strong enough).

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~1.4–2.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Retinyl palmitate

Medium risk

We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh6%

Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~1.3–1.9%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~1–1.6%est.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium2%

HomosalateA weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulationMedium4%

Butyloctyl salicylateA synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its ownMedium~4.5–6.8%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~1.4–2.1%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~1–1.6%est.

Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesMedium~0.45–1.05%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.5–1.1%est.

Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonateUsed to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.4%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties3/5~0.45–1.05%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane2%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

Homosalate4%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Homosalate

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate6%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

Ethylhexyl salicylate4%

UV filter

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate

Isododecane~23–34%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane

Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~5.1–7.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer

Butyloctyl salicylate~4.5–6.8%

UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

A synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its own

More about Butyloctyl salicylate

Polysilicone-11~3.7–5.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel

More about Polysilicone-11

Bisabolol~2.7–4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Coffea arabica seed extract~2–3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Coffea arabica seed extract

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~1.4–2.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Chamomilla recutita flower extract~1.3–1.9%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract

Retinyl palmitate~1–1.6%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate

Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~1–1.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract

Calluna vulgaris flower extract~0.6–1.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Calluna vulgaris flower extract

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.5–1.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.45–1.05%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

More about Chlorella vulgaris extract

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.5–1.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Physalis angulata extract~0.3–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Physalis angulata extract

Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract

Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to stabilize the product formulation

More about Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate

Ingredient list view

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Isododecane, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Butyloctyl salicylate, Polysilicone-11, Bisabolol, Coffea arabica seed extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Retinyl palmitate, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Calluna vulgaris flower extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Physalis angulata extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate

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Paula's Choice AUS

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Product summary

"Paula's choice - Smoothing Primer Serum SPF 15" offers broad spectrum protection. It means that it protects from both UVA and UVB rays (you can remember UVB as "burning" sunlight - they cause sunburn. You can remember UVA rays as "aging" - they do not lead to sunburn, but they cause photodamage and contribute to early signs of skin aging and hyperpigmentation). On the negative side, the SPF of this sunscreen is not high enough. We recommend to use a sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily.

Sunscreen filters

This is a so-called "chemical" sunscreen. It means that it uses organic UV filters. They typically offer good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for some people with sensitive skin. The UV filters in this sunscreen are: avobenzone 2.00% (declared), butyloctyl salicylate 4.50% - 6.80%, octinoxate 6.00% (declared), octisalate 4.00% (declared) and homosalate 4.00% (declared).

Irritation risk

This sunscreen contains actives that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this sunscreen to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 52.00A$ in Australia.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 4 studies and safety reviews.

Paula's choiceSmoothing Primer Serum SPF 15

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