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OSEA® Malibu Eye & Lip Firming Cream
OSEA® Malibu

OSEA® Malibu Eye & Lip Firming Cream

Efficacy62/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
13 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Eye & Lip Firming Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, saccharomyces/copper ferment.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane.

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.2–3.3%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~6.3–9.4%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.85–1.25%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–5.7%
Saccharomyces/copper fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighYeast extract that contains copper. Can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help in skin wound healing~0.35–0.75%
Saccharomyces/zinc fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighYeast extract that contains zinc. Can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Evidence of effectiveness for other benefits is missing~0.15–0.6%
Capryloyl glycineKey activeEffect: MediumHelps oil and water mix together, preserve cosmetic products, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.45%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~1–1.6%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~1.7–2.5%
Saccharomyces/manganese fermentKey activeEffect: MediumA yeast extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.75%
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: MediumIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.4–0.9%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.5–2.2%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.5–1.2%
Anti-aging
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“This high performance cream contains squalane derived from olives that works to plump and firm the eye contours, while also working to reduce the appearance of lines around eyes and lips.”
Source: Credo Beauty

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.4–0.9%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.5–1.2%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Calendula officinalis flower extract, Citrus limon seed oil
Medium risk
We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Anthemis nobilis flower extractA plant extract that one one hand, can contain compounds that can help calm down skin irritation, but, on the other hand, its other compounds (especially fragrant ones) can themselves be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Citrus limon seed oil—High~0.01–0.1%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~6.3–9.4%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~1.7–2.5%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~1.2–1.8%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~1–1.6%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Saccharomyces/manganese fermentA yeast extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.5–1.2%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.5–2.2%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~6.3–9.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~3.8–5.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Sorbitan olivate~2.5–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Squalane~2.2–3.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Olea europaea fruit oil~1.7–2.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Derived
Not recognized
Cetearyl alcohol~1.5–2.2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Cetearyl glucoside~1.2–1.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~1–1.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.85–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.5–1.2%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness

More about Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Saccharomyces/copper ferment~0.35–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Yeast extract that contains copper. Can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help in skin wound healing

More about Saccharomyces/copper ferment
Saccharomyces/manganese ferment~0.2–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A yeast extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharomyces/manganese ferment
Saccharomyces/zinc ferment~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Yeast extract that contains zinc. Can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Evidence of effectiveness for other benefits is missing

More about Saccharomyces/zinc ferment
Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Gigartina skottsbergii extract~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Gigartina skottsbergii extract
Capryloyl glycine~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together, preserve cosmetic products, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Capryloyl glycine
Anthemis nobilis flower extract~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A plant extract that one one hand, can contain compounds that can help calm down skin irritation, but, on the other hand, its other compounds (especially fragrant ones) can themselves be irritating

More about Anthemis nobilis flower extract
Citrus limon seed oil~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus limon seed oil
Undecylenoyl glycine~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Undecylenoyl glycine
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Sorbitan olivate, Squalane, Olea europaea fruit oil, Unknown, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetearyl glucoside, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Saccharomyces/copper ferment, Saccharomyces/manganese ferment, Saccharomyces/zinc ferment, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Gigartina skottsbergii extract, Capryloyl glycine, Anthemis nobilis flower extract, Citrus limon seed oil, Undecylenoyl glycine

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 7 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  3. 3
    Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
  4. 4
    Topical application of Calendula officinalis (L.): Formulation and evaluation of hydrophilic cream with antioxidant activitypdfs.semanticscholar.org
  5. 5
    The seamy side of natural medicines: contact sensitization to arnica (Arnica montana L.) and marigold (Calendula officinalis L.)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Final report on the safety assessment of Calendula officinalis extract and Calendula officinalisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
OSEA® Malibu Eye & Lip Firming Cream
OSEA® MalibuEye & Lip Firming Cream
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