OPI

OPI Prospa Intensive Callus Smoothing Balm

Name: OPI - Prospa Intensive Callus Smoothing Balm
Brand: OPI

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Exfoliation

Hydroxyethyl urea, Lactic acid

Works well

What the product description says

“Harnessing the powers of exfoliating Lactic Acid, the salon-quality treatment balm expertly dissolves dead, rough skin to eliminate cracked heels, calluses and hard patches.”

Source: Mankind

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea.

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.2–1.4%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%

Moisturizing

Panthenol, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 + 21 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Nourishing Chamomile and Cupuaçu Butter moisturise and hydrate, leaving tired soles feeling restored and revitalised.”

Source: Mankind

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, glycine soja oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.95–1.15%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~5.3–6.5%

Isopropyl myristateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic~4.2–5.1%

Cetyl ricinoleateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin~2.4–2.9%

Ethylhexyl hydroxystearateKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from it~2.1–2.6%

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.2–1.4%

Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer~0.65–1%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.55–0.8%

Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.5–0.75%

Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.45–0.7%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.3–0.6%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.25–0.45%

Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~1.7–2%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.45–0.7%

Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.3–0.55%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.3–0.55%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.5%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.55%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + 3 more

May help

This product contains palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

8 strong irritants: Parfum, Limonene + 6 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 23 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~1.7–2%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.55–0.8%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.3–0.55%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2.8–3.4%est.

Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layerMedium~0.65–1%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.55–0.8%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.45–0.7%est.

Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Isopropyl myristateAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic3/5~4.2–5.1%est.

Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.45–0.7%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~5.3–6.5%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.55–0.8%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Cetearyl alcohol~5.3–6.5%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Isopropyl myristate~4.2–5.1%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic

More about Isopropyl myristate

Polysorbate 60~2.8–3.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Cetyl ricinoleate~2.4–2.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Cetyl ricinoleate

Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate~2.1–2.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from it

More about Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate

Propylene glycol~1.7–2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Butylene glycol~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Hydroxyethyl urea~1.2–1.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

ExfoliationMoisturizing

A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients

More about Hydroxyethyl urea

Panthenol~0.95–1.15%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter~0.65–1%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer

More about Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter

Parfum~0.55–0.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Glycine soja oil~0.55–0.8%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Phenoxyethanol~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl glycol~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Persea gratissima oil~0.5–0.75%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil

Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.45–0.7%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate

Disodium edta~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Limonene~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Linalool~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Glycerin~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Lecithin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Citronellol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract

Geraniol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Alcohol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Lactic acid~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneExfoliationMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Glyceryl stearate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Citral~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Oleic acid~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid

Carbomer~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Sodium lactate~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Polysorbate 20~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Farnesol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Sodium carbonate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps regulate product's pH

More about Sodium carbonate

Ci 19140~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140

Ci 61570~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ci 61570

(green 5)

Not recognized

Ingredient list view

Water, Cetearyl alcohol, Isopropyl myristate, Polysorbate 60, Cetyl ricinoleate, Ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, Propylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Hydroxyethyl urea, Panthenol, Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, Parfum, Glycine soja oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol, Persea gratissima oil, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Disodium edta, Limonene, Linalool, Glycerin, Lecithin, Citronellol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Geraniol, Alcohol, Lactic acid, Glyceryl stearate, Citral, Oleic acid, Carbomer, Sodium lactate, Polysorbate 20, Ascorbyl palmitate, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Farnesol, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Tocopheryl acetate, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium carbonate, Ci 19140, Ci 61570, Unknown

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	OPIProspa Intensive Callus Smoothing BalmYOUR PRODUCT	Elizabeth GrantCaviar Cellular Recharge Super Eye Cream	Eveline CosmeticsBio Hyaluron Expert	grace & stellaBrightening Eye Stick
Match	—	42%	41%	39%
Price	—	$25.95	—	$9.95
Shared key ingredients	—	8 of 14	7 of 14	7 of 14
Key difference	—	Lanolin	Bakuchiol	Niacinamide
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"OPI - Prospa Intensive Callus Smoothing Balm" is effective for: Exfoliation and Moisturizing

This moisturizer could be helpful for: Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.45% and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.25% - 0.45%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 0.95% - 1.15% concentration. In this concentration, Panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.