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OPI Prospa Exfoliating Sugar Scrub
OPI

OPI Prospa Exfoliating Sugar Scrub

Efficacy62/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Canola oil, Sucrose + 12 more
Works
What the product description says
“Detoxifying White Tea Extract combines with nourishing Cupuaçu Butter to moisturise and hydrate, leaving tired soles feeling restored and comforted.”
Source: Mankind

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: sucrose, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: persea gratissima oil, canola oil.

Canola oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin~23–34%
SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~6.9–10.4%
Peg-12 dimethiconeKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~3.6–5.3%
Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.85–1.25%
Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.45–1.05%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.4–0.95%
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer~0.35–0.8%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.9%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.8%
Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.1–0.4%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.1–0.45%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.8%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.75%
Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.2–0.75%
Exfoliation
Retinyl palmitate
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Prospa Exfoliating Sugar Scrub”
Source: Mankind

This product might help exfoliate the skin with retinyl palmitate, but this ingredient is not the most effective.

Retinyl palmitateEffect: LowThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.6%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Retinyl palmitate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract
May help

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl palmitate.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.6%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.9%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Retinyl palmitate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 1 more
May help

This product contains retinyl palmitate. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.15–0.6%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.9%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.05–0.15%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract + 2 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis leaf extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.9%
Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.2–0.75%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.2–0.75%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.05–0.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
9 strong irritants: Parfum, Limonene + 7 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~2.1–3.2%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~1.7–2.6%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~1.1–1.7%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–1.15%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.95%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.2–0.7%est.
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
Canola oilA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~23–34%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~1–1.5%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layerMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.75%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.75%est.
Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.05–0.15%est.
Isopropyl titanium triisostearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.4–0.95%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Canola oil~23–34%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Canola oil
Sucrose~6.9–10.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose
Silica~4.2–6.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Peg-12 dimethicone~3.6–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Peg-12 dimethicone
Parfum~2.1–3.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Limonene~1.7–2.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Linalool~1.1–1.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Bht~1–1.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Saccharum officinarum extract~0.85–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract
Citronellol~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Persea gratissima oil~0.45–1.05%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Water~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter~0.35–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer

More about Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter
Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.4–0.95%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Butylene glycol~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Citrus limon fruit extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Lecithin~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Retinyl palmitate~0.15–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Synthetic wax~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and thicken product consistency

More about Synthetic wax
Alcohol~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Oleic acid~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Isopropyl titanium triisostearate~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Isopropyl titanium triisostearate
Ci 42090~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090
Ingredient list view

Canola oil, Sucrose, Silica, Peg-12 dimethicone, Parfum, Limonene, Phenoxyethanol, Linalool, Bht, Saccharum officinarum extract, Citronellol, Geraniol, Persea gratissima oil, Water, Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Butylene glycol, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Lecithin, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl palmitate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Synthetic wax, Alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Oleic acid, Ascorbyl palmitate, Isopropyl titanium triisostearate, Ci 42090

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
OPIProspa Exfoliating Sugar ScrubYOUR PRODUCTMoroccanoilBody BuffM. AsamVino Gold Body ExfoliantLyconPedi Sugar Scrub
Match—28%27%23%
Price—$54.23$21.03$16.25
Shared key ingredients—2 of 72 of 71 of 7
Key difference—Agran OilGlycerinGlycerin
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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  • differs
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More alternatives: Andalou Naturals 1000 Roses Perfecting Lip Sugar Scrube.l.f. Cosmetics Lip Exfoliator

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Product summary

"OPI - Prospa Exfoliating Sugar Scrub" could be helpful for: Moisturizing, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • this product includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.15% - 0.50%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • Humectants (sucrose 26.00% - 39.00%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails for 19.80CA$ in Canada, for 38.40A$ in Australia, from 14.18£ up to 27.93£ in the United Kingdom and for 17.20$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 8 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Canola Oilsciencedirect.com
  2. 2
    Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extractsec.europa.eu
  3. 3
    Advanced Skin Care – A Novel Ingredientncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Safety Assessment of Citrus Fruit-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  5. 5
    Photosensitivity in children: An approach to diagnosis and managementijdvl.com
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
OPI Prospa Exfoliating Sugar Scrub
OPIProspa Exfoliating Sugar Scrub
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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.