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MOSSA Youth Defence Restoring Eye Cream
MOSSA

MOSSA Youth Defence Restoring Eye Cream

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride + 9 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Youth Defence Restoring Eye Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.1–0.4%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.2–7.9%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~2.6–4%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~1.7–2.5%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.85–1.25%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~7.1–10.7%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.5–1.2%
TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~3.5–5.3%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~0.45–1.1%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.35–0.85%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.45–1.1%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Tocopherol, Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract + 2 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (tocopherol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

TocopherolKey activeEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~3.5–5.3%
Aesculus hippocastanum seed extractEffect: LowPlant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating~0.05–0.15%
Rubus fruticosus fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.05–0.2%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.9–1.35%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Tocopherol, Ascorbyl palmitate + 1 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains tocopherol. This ingredient help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they might be able to prevent early signs of aging (like fine lines and wrinkles), at least to some extent. These ingredients will not be able to "reverse" signs of aging.

TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~3.5–5.3%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.45–1.1%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.9–1.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Alcohol, Aroma + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~1.2–1.7%est.
AromaAn unspecified blend of fragrant irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
Lavandula angustifolia waterUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
Aesculus hippocastanum seed extractPlant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~22–34%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.2–7.9%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.9–1.35%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.45–1.1%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.35–0.85%est.
Rubus fruticosus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.85–1.25%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~22–34%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
Stearic acid~7.1–10.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.2–7.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Tocopherol~3.5–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sodium hyaluronate~2.6–4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Water~2.2–3.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Sodium pca~1.7–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Xanthan gum~1.4–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Alcohol~1.2–1.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.9–1.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Cellulose~0.95–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Can be used to help absorb oil as well as add volume and imporve texture of products.

More about Cellulose
Cetearyl alcohol~0.85–1.25%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Lactic acid~0.45–1.1%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Palmitic acid~0.5–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Dicaprylyl carbonate~0.45–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Sodium phytate~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate
Aroma~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An unspecified blend of fragrant irritating ingredients

More about Aroma
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.35–0.85%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Decyl cocoate~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Decyl cocoate
Limonene~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Glycerin~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Lavandula angustifolia water~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Lavandula angustifolia water
Rubus fruticosus fruit extract~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Rubus fruticosus fruit extract
Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating

More about Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract
Ingredient list view

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Stearic acid, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Tocopherol, Sodium hyaluronate, Water, Sodium pca, Xanthan gum, Alcohol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Cellulose, Cetearyl alcohol, Lactic acid, Palmitic acid, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Sodium phytate, Aroma, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Decyl cocoate, Limonene, Linalool, Glycerin, Lavandula angustifolia water, Rubus fruticosus fruit extract, Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 8 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  3. 3
    Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
  5. 5
    Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
MOSSA Youth Defence Restoring Eye Cream
MOSSAYouth Defence Restoring Eye Cream
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