M-61

M-61 Hydraboost Lip Treatment

Name: M-61 - Hydraboost Lip Treatment
Brand: M-61

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

6 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Softens fine lines.”

Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.15–0.6%

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12Key activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.85%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.8–2.7%

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.05–0.3%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.35–0.85%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.8%

Moisturizing

19 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Hydraboost Lip Treatment”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, butyrospermum parkii butter.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ng, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, panthenol

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.8–2.7%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.65%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.3–0.75%

PhytosterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function~0.15–0.6%

Ceramide ngHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.15–0.65%

Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.4–0.95%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.1–0.3%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.15–0.65%

Hydrogenated jojoba oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~2.1–3.2%

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2Key active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface~3–4.4%

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.85%

C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~0.55–1.3%

Tamarindus indica seed gumKey activeEffect: MediumHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin~0.15–0.6%

Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~4.6–6.9%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.1–0.5%

Tribehenin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.65%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.35–0.85%

Aloe barbadensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.4–0.95%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

3 strong irritants: Sorbitan sesquioleate, Mentha piperita oil + 1 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Sorbitan sesquioleateUsed to help oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–1%est.

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.15–0.6%est.

Calendula officinalis extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Mentha piperita oilUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.45%est.

Carica papaya fruit extract—High~0.15–0.5%est.

Sambucus nigra fruit extractA plant extract that may contain a small amount of essential oils. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skinHigh~0.15–0.5%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.4–0.95%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.35–0.85%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.75%est.

Tamarindus indica seed gumHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skinMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.15–0.55%est.

PhytosterolsLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier functionMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Peg-10 phytosterolHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.35%est.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.05–0.3%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.1–0.5%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.8–2.7%est.

Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.4–0.95%est.

Hydrogenated soybean oil—2/5~22–33%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Hydrogenated soybean oil~22–33%

Comedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

More about Hydrogenated soybean oil

Octyldodecanol~4.6–6.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol

Hydrogenated olive oil~4.6–6.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydrogenated olive oil

Microcrystalline wax~3.6–5.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Microcrystalline wax

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2~3–4.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface

More about Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2

Hydrogenated jojoba oil~2.1–3.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated jojoba oil

Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.8–2.7%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate~1.4–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate

Polyethylene~1.4–2.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken the product's texture

More about Polyethylene

Glycine soja lipids~0.85–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Glycine soja lipids

C12-15 alkyl benzoate~0.55–1.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate

Sorbitan sesquioleate~0.45–1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Cleansing

Used to help oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Sorbitan sesquioleate

Cocos nucifera oil~0.4–0.95%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil

Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12~0.35–0.85%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizing

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12

Panthenol~0.3–0.75%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~0.4–0.95%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract

Centella asiatica extract~0.35–0.85%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Tocopherol~0.2–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Tamarindus indica seed gum~0.15–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin

More about Tamarindus indica seed gum

Glycolic acid~0.15–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Calendula officinalis extract~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Calendula officinalis extract

Mentha piperita oil~0.1–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita oil

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.15–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Carica papaya fruit extract~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Carica papaya fruit extract

Sambucus nigra fruit extract~0.15–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that may contain a small amount of essential oils. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Sambucus nigra fruit extract

Morus alba leaf extract~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Morus alba leaf extract

Water~0.1–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Tribehenin~0.15–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tribehenin

Ceramide ng~0.15–0.65%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ng

Phytosterols~0.15–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function

More about Phytosterols

Peg-10 phytosterol~0.1–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-10 phytosterol

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.05–0.3%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Glycerin~0.1–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Pentylene glycol~0.1–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Ingredient list view

Hydrogenated soybean oil, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated olive oil, Microcrystalline wax, Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated jojoba oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, Polyethylene, Glycine soja lipids, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Sorbitan sesquioleate, Cocos nucifera oil, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Panthenol, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl acetate, Sodium hyaluronate, Tamarindus indica seed gum, Glycolic acid, Calendula officinalis extract, Mentha piperita oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Carica papaya fruit extract, Sambucus nigra fruit extract, Morus alba leaf extract, Water, Tribehenin, Ceramide ng, Phytosterols, Peg-10 phytosterol, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Glycerin, Pentylene glycol

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "M-61 - Hydraboost Lip Treatment" works well for improving skin hydration This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Panthenol, glycerin and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide ng, hydrogenated jojoba oil, phytosterols, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and butyrospermum parkii butter) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide ng 0.15% - 0.65%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 0.35% - 0.85%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of it to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.