M-61 20th Anniversary PowerGlow Peel

M-61 20th Anniversary PowerGlow Peel

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Evens skin tone
Glycolic acid, Salicylic acid + 2 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Glycolic and salicylic acid help to improve the skin’s tone, texture and clarity, reduce pore size and fine lines, while chamomile and lavender calm and soothe skin in this power-packed, at-home treatment.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid, salicylic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~4.4–5.4%
Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~1.6–1.9%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.95–1.15%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.65–0.95%
Exfoliation
Glycolic acid, Salicylic acid + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“This 1-minute, 1-step exfoliating peel resurfaces, clarifies and helps to firm the skin for a radiant, renewed glow.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, salicylic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~4.4–5.4%
Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~1.6–1.9%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.65–0.95%
Anti-aging
Glycolic acid, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 2 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Glycolic and salicylic acid help to improve the skin’s tone, texture and clarity, reduce pore size and fine lines, while chamomile and lavender calm and soothe skin in this power-packed, at-home treatment.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~4.4–5.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.95–1.15%
Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.05–0.1%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.65–0.95%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Salicylic acid, Glycolic acid + 2 more
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: salicylic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid, zinc pca

Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~1.6–1.9%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~4.4–5.4%
Zinc pcaKey activeEffect: MediumA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.05–0.1%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.95–1.15%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Superoxide dismutase + 2 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.95–1.15%
Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.2–0.4%
Boerhavia diffusa root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals~0.5–0.7%
Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.05–0.1%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Saccharum officinarum extract, Glycerin + 6 more
Works

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, zinc pca.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

Saccharum officinarum extractKey activeEffect: HighSugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.25–0.45%
Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.2–0.4%
Zinc pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.05–0.1%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~3.2–3.9%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.95–1.15%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.65–0.95%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Hamamelis virginiana water + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~8.4–10.2%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~4.4–5.4%est.
Hamamelis virginiana waterA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~2.2–2.7%est.
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~1.6–1.9%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~1.1–1.4%est.
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Mentha piperita oilUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~3.2–3.9%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.65–0.95%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Boerhavia diffusa root extractA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.5–0.7%est.
Acer saccharum extractA plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compoundsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Ammonium hydroxideHelps adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Alcohol denat.~8.4–10.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Glycolic acid~4.4–5.4%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Pentylene glycol~3.2–3.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Hamamelis virginiana water~2.2–2.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana water
Salicylic acid~1.6–1.9%
Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryExfoliationAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Phytonadione~1.8–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Phytonadione
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit/leaf extract~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~1.1–1.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.95–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishMoisturizingEvens skin tone

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Lactic acid~0.65–0.95%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneExfoliationMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Citric acid~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Boerhavia diffusa root extract~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals

More about Boerhavia diffusa root extract
Citrus limon fruit extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Saccharum officinarum extract~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharum officinarum extract
Mentha piperita oil~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita oil
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Acer saccharum extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds

More about Acer saccharum extract
Glycerin~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Superoxide dismutase~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase
Ammonium hydroxide~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps adjust the product pH

More about Ammonium hydroxide
Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Butylene glycol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Alcohol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Disodium edta~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Zinc pca~0.05–0.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca
Ingredient list view

Water, Alcohol denat., Glycolic acid, Pentylene glycol, Hamamelis virginiana water, Salicylic acid, Phytonadione, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit/leaf extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Lactic acid, Citric acid, Boerhavia diffusa root extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Saccharum officinarum extract, Mentha piperita oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Acer saccharum extract, Glycerin, Superoxide dismutase, Ammonium hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Butylene glycol, Alcohol, Disodium edta, Zinc pca

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
M-6120th Anniversary PowerGlow PeelYOUR PRODUCTDr Dennis GrossProfessional Grade Resurfacing Liquid PeelPaula's choice25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant PeelREVOLUTION SKINCAREAHA & BHA Moderate Multi Acid Peeling Solution
Match—83%79%78%
Price—$95.00$45.00$13.35
Shared key ingredients—7 of 84 of 85 of 8
Key difference—Colloidal OatmealGlycyrrhetinic AcidUrea
Irritancy High High Medium High
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ——
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 24 studies and safety reviews.

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M-61 20th Anniversary PowerGlow Peel
M-6120th Anniversary PowerGlow Peel

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