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Little Barn Apothecary Borage + Botanicals Hydration Cream Concentrate
Little Barn Apothecary

Little Barn Apothecary Borage + Botanicals Hydration Cream Concentrate

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Borago officinalis seed oil, Squalene + 2 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“For parched skin in need of some deep moisture, this cream concentrate is our most intense hydration formula.”
Source: Little Barn Apothecary

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: sucrose, aloe barbadensis leaf juice.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalene, borago officinalis seed oil.

Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~1–1.5%
SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~1.6–2.5%
SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~4.3–6.5%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~23–34%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Squalene, Borago officinalis seed oil + 3 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (squalene) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~1.6–2.5%
Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~1–1.5%
Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~1.3–2%
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking~9.6–14.4%
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extractEffect: LowA berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~1.8–2.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 8 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~3.8–5.8%est.
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~2.7–4%est.
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extractA berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~1.8–2.7%est.
Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~1.3–2%est.
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oilAn essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~23–34%est.
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lackingMedium~9.6–14.4%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~1.6–2.5%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~23–34%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Rose distillate
Not recognized
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~9.6–14.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking

More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract
Sucrose~4.3–6.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~3.8–5.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Citrus limon fruit extract~2.7–4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract~1.8–2.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract
Salix alba bark extract~1.3–2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract
Squalene~1.6–2.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene
Borago officinalis seed oil~1–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil
Citric acid~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Unknown, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Sucrose, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus limon fruit extract, Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract, Salix alba bark extract, Squalene, Borago officinalis seed oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, Citric acid

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 12 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Lonicera caerulea and Vaccinium myrtillus fruit polyphenols protect HaCaT keratinocytes against UVB-induced phototoxic stress and DNA damagesciencedirect.com
  2. 2
    Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects. 2nd edition.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Safety Assessment of Citrus Fruit-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    Photosensitivity in children: An approach to diagnosis and managementijdvl.com
  5. 5
    Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  6. 6
    Efficacy and Safety of White Willow Bark (Salix alba) Extractonlinelibrary.wiley.com
Little Barn Apothecary Borage + Botanicals Hydration Cream Concentrate
Little Barn ApothecaryBorage + Botanicals Hydration Cream Concentrate
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