Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Exfoliation
- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
In 4 weeks, skin quality is improved and fine lines are smoothed
Source: Sephora CA
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
Nightly Refining Micro-Peel Concentrate
Source: From product name
This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea.
A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients
Used to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products
Moisturizing
This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).
A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A plant extract. Can help attract water the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
In 1 week, texture is refined and skin tone is more even .
Source: Sephora CA
This product might help improve the skin tone through exfoliation. In other words, it helps to speed up the shedding of cells from the upper layer of the skin, and this might help reduce hyperpigmentation.
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Exfoliation | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 83/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Kiehl's Nightly Refining Micro-Peel Concentrate | Current | $34.40 | |
 Vichy Normaderm Probio-BHA Serum | 57% | $23.10 | |
 Superegg Tonal Scenery Reparative Serum | 52% | $72.00 | |
 Oh K! Illuminating Serum | 52% | $15.00 | |
 MISSHA Super Aqua Cell Renew Snail Ampoule | 52% | $49.00 | |
 LANEIGE Perfect Renew Youth Serum | 52% | $59.00 |
Key Actives
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients
Used to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Potential irritants
Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity
A plant extract. Can help attract water the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
Used to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics
Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation
A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Comedogenic ingredients
Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation
All ingredients
Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products
Used to regulate product's pH, but can be also used as an exfoliator when included in higher concentrations. There is a controversy about whether it can generate free radicals and induce skin cell damage when used in topical products
A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking
Sugar extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics
Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity
A plant extract that contains small percentage of AHAs. Is unlikely to have any skin benefit due the small concentration of the active compounds
A plant extract. Can help attract water the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Ingredient list view
Water, Alcohol denat., Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, Hydroxyethyl urea, Sodium citrate, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Sodium hydroxide, Chenopodium quinoa seed extract, Saccharum officinarum extract, Glycerin, Propanediol, Phytic acid, Carrageenan, Phenoxyethanol, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit water, Citrus limon fruit extract, Disodium edta, Acer saccharum extract, Hydrolyzed opuntia ficus-indica flower extract, Potassium sorbate, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus aurantium dulcis juice, Sodium benzoate, Ascorbyl glucoside
- Oxidative DNA damage induced by HEPES (2-[4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-piperazinyl]ethanesulfonic acid) buffer in the presence of Au(III)
- Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethyl Urea As Used in Cosmetics
- Lonicera caerulea and Vaccinium myrtillus fruit polyphenols protect HaCaT keratinocytes against UVB-induced phototoxic stress and DNA damage
- Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects. 2nd edition.
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acids
- Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasma
- Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmetics
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health
- Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives