Institut Esthederm

Institut Esthederm Sun Intolerance Face Cream

Name: Institut Esthederm - Sun Intolerance Face Cream
Brand: Institut Esthederm

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

3 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

What the product description says

“The cream is able to protect cell DNA, prevent the visible signs of photo-ageing and optimise the cells’ energy environment.”

Source: Lookfantastic

This product contains carnosine, creatine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.1–0.2%

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.4–0.65%

Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.3–0.5%

Moisturizing

14 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

What the product description says

“Sun Intolerance Face Cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, artemia extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, cetyl alcohol.

Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.3–0.5%

Artemia extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.45%

MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.5–3%

CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.1–0.2%

Pongamia glabra seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.5%

Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.5%

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.25–0.45%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.6–0.85%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.5%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.65–0.95%

Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.25–0.45%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~4.4–5.4%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: HighActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.35–0.65%

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.1–0.2%

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.4–0.65%

Artemia extractEffect: LowZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.45%

Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.5%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.45–0.7%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycyrrhetinic acid.

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: MediumActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.35–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Alcohol

Medium risk

We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh~5.4–6.6%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

HomosalateA weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~2.5–3.1%est.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~2.1–2.6%est.

Ethylhexyl methoxycryleneHelps improve stability of sunscreen filters and boost their effectivenessMedium~1.4–1.8%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1–1.2%est.

Vp/eicosene copolymerUsed to improve the product adherence to the skin, for example, to pro-long the protective effect of sunscreens. Can be irritating to very sensitive skinMedium~0.75–1.1%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.

Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~0.3–0.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate~5.4–6.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

Dicaprylyl carbonate~4.4–5.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate

Ethylhexyl salicylate~3.7–4.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate

Glycerin~2.5–3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Homosalate~2.5–3.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Homosalate

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~2.1–2.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene~1.4–1.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps improve stability of sunscreen filters and boost their effectiveness

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene

Pongamia glabra seed oil~1.2–1.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Pongamia glabra seed oil

Potassium cetyl phosphate~1–1.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Vp/eicosene copolymer~0.75–1.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Used to improve the product adherence to the skin, for example, to pro-long the protective effect of sunscreens. Can be irritating to very sensitive skin

More about Vp/eicosene copolymer

Glyceryl stearate~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Peg-100 stearate~0.6–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate

Cetyl alcohol~0.6–0.85%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Tocopheryl acetate~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

C20-22 alkyl phosphate~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about C20-22 alkyl phosphate

Creatine~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine

Glycyrrhetinic acid~0.35–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhetinic acid

Mannitol~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol

C20-22 alcohols~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about C20-22 alcohols

Sodium dextran sulfate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium dextran sulfate

Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Cerium oxide~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cerium oxide

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Disodium edta~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein

Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein

Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Propylene glycol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Butylene glycol~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Alcohol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Artemia extract~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Artemia extract

Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate

Carnosine~0.25–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine

Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Algae extract~0.3–0.5%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract

Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate

Water~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate

Carnosine~0.1–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine

Mineral salts~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicked product formulations. Might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin

More about Mineral salts

Ingredient list view

Water, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Glycerin, Homosalate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, Pongamia glabra seed oil, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Vp/eicosene copolymer, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Cetyl alcohol, Tocopheryl acetate, C20-22 alkyl phosphate, Creatine, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Mannitol, C20-22 alcohols, Sodium dextran sulfate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Cerium oxide, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Disodium edta, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Sodium hydroxide, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Potassium sorbate, Propylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Alcohol, Caprylyl glycol, Artemia extract, Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, Carnosine, Xanthan gum, Algae extract, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Water, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Carnosine, Mineral salts