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Institut Esthederm Photo Reverse Brightening Anti-Dark Spots Suncare Stick
Institut Esthederm

Institut Esthederm Photo Reverse Brightening Anti-Dark Spots Suncare Stick

Efficacy83/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Hexapeptide-2, Caprylic/capric triglyceride + 17 more
Works well
What the product description says
“It neutralises skin’s photo-aging and protects against DNA damage and oxidative stress.”
Source: Naos Store

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: artemia extract, carnosine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, copernicia cerifera wax.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: hexapeptide-2

Hexapeptide-2HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.65%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~23–34%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~3.3–5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.1–1.7%
Theobroma cacao seed butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~1–1.5%
Copernicia cerifera waxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~0.55–1.25%
Copernicia cerifera ceraKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumBrazilian palm wax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–1.3%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.45–1%
MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.8%
CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.7%
Palmaria palmata extractKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.75%
Artemia extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.75%
Stearyl glycyrrhetinateKey activeEffect: MediumA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation~0.2–0.75%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.2–0.7%
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.15–0.7%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.35–0.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.75%
Propylene carbonateEffect: LowIs used to dissolve other ingredients and create nice product texture~0.3–0.7%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.7%
Anti-aging
Carnosine, Creatine + 1 more
May help
What the product description says
“It neutralises skin’s photo-aging and protects against DNA damage and oxidative stress.”
Source: Naos Store

This product contains carnosine, creatine, hexapeptide-2. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.7%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.15–0.7%
Hexapeptide-2Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.65%
Evens skin tone
Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, Hydrolyzed soy protein
May help
What the product description says
“Photo Reverse Brightening Anti-Dark Spots Suncare Stick”
From product name

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: stearyl glycyrrhetinate.

Stearyl glycyrrhetinateKey activeEffect: MediumA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation~0.2–0.75%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.2–0.7%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Carnosine, Creatine + 5 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.7%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.15–0.7%
Theobroma cacao seed butterEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~1–1.5%
Artemia extractEffect: LowZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.75%
Palmaria palmata extractEffect: LowRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.75%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.2–0.7%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.4–0.95%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
16 flagged ingredients
Medium risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~23–34%est.
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoateUvinul A Plus. A new generation broad spectrum sunscreen that offers an effective protection especially in the UVA range. It is stable in formulations. Unfortunately, is not approved by the FDA (US) yetMedium~2.6–3.9%est.
Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazineTinosorb S. One of the most effective broad spectrum sunscreen ingredients. Protects from both UVA and UVB rays. It is photostable. Unfortunately, not approved by FDA (US) yet.Medium~1.8–2.7%est.
Ethylhexyl triazoneUvinul T. A UV filter. Effective against UVB rays. It is photostable. Can increase water resistance properties of the sunscreen. Unfortunately, not approved by the FDA (US) yetMedium~1–1.6%est.
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.45–1%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–0.95%est.
Polyglyceryl-4 isostearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Stearyl glycyrrhetinateA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammationMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.15–0.7%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.75%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Calcium chlorideHelps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect3/5~1–1.5%est.
Palmaria palmata extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.2–0.75%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~23–34%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Coco-caprylate/caprate~3.3–5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Candelilla cera~4.6–6.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Candelilla cera
Euphorbia cerifera wax~4–5.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Euphorbia cerifera wax
Candelilla cera~3–4.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Candelilla cera
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate~2.6–3.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Uvinul A Plus. A new generation broad spectrum sunscreen that offers an effective protection especially in the UVA range. It is stable in formulations. Unfortunately, is not approved by the FDA (US) yet

More about Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate
Water~1.7–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine~1.8–2.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Tinosorb S. One of the most effective broad spectrum sunscreen ingredients. Protects from both UVA and UVB rays. It is photostable. Unfortunately, not approved by FDA (US) yet.

More about Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
Glycerin~1.1–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Theobroma cacao seed butter~1–1.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Theobroma cacao seed butter
Ethylhexyl triazone~1–1.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Uvinul T. A UV filter. Effective against UVB rays. It is photostable. Can increase water resistance properties of the sunscreen. Unfortunately, not approved by the FDA (US) yet

More about Ethylhexyl triazone
Corn starch modified~0.55–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken the product formulation

More about Corn starch modified
Copernicia cerifera cera~0.55–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Brazilian palm wax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Copernicia cerifera cera
Copernicia cerifera wax~0.55–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Copernicia cerifera wax
Ricinus communis seed oil~0.45–1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Magnesium sulfate~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Magnesium sulfate
Mannitol~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol
Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate
Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate
Stearyl glycyrrhetinate~0.2–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation

More about Stearyl glycyrrhetinate
Stearalkonium hectorite~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create an even product consistency

More about Stearalkonium hectorite
1,2-hexanediol~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Pentylene glycol~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Butylene glycol~0.2–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Sodium dextran sulfate~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium dextran sulfate
Propylene carbonate~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Is used to dissolve other ingredients and create nice product texture

More about Propylene carbonate
Palmaria palmata extract~0.2–0.75%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Palmaria palmata extract
Maltodextrin~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.2–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein
Creatine~0.15–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine
Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.15–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Andrographis paniculata leaf extract~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Andrographis paniculata leaf extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sodium citrate~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Sodium chloride~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Artemia extract~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Artemia extract
Citric acid~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Aminoethanesulfinic acid~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Aminoethanesulfinic acid
Carnosine~0.2–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Potassium chloride~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Potassium chloride
Sodium bicarbonate~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the product pH

More about Sodium bicarbonate
Disodium phosphate~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate
Potassium phosphate~0.2–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate
Hexapeptide-2~0.15–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Hexapeptide-2
Calcium chloride~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating

More about Calcium chloride
Water~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Ingredient list view

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Candelilla cera, Euphorbia cerifera wax, Candelilla cera, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Water, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Glycerin, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Ethylhexyl triazone, Corn starch modified, Copernicia cerifera cera, Copernicia cerifera wax, Ricinus communis seed oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Magnesium sulfate, Mannitol, Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, Stearalkonium hectorite, 1,2-hexanediol, Pentylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Sodium dextran sulfate, Propylene carbonate, Palmaria palmata extract, Maltodextrin, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Creatine, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Caprylyl glycol, Andrographis paniculata leaf extract, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan gum, Sodium citrate, Sodium chloride, Artemia extract, Citric acid, Aminoethanesulfinic acid, Carnosine, Potassium chloride, Sodium bicarbonate, Disodium phosphate, Potassium phosphate, Hexapeptide-2, Calcium chloride, Water

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Institut EsthedermPhoto Reverse Brightening Anti-Dark Spots Suncare StickYOUR PRODUCTArenciaRetinal Booster ShotGUERLAINOrchidée Impériale Brightening The Radiance SerumDr Roebuck'sSurf Chaser Reverse Aging Serum
Match—41%34%28%
Price—$13.75$271.23$50.00
Shared key ingredients—3 of 154 of 154 of 15
Key difference—Hexapeptide-9Lactic AcidNiacinamide
Irritancy Medium Medium High Low
Drying alcohol—— Contains drying alcohol —
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuringncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Productionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Institut Esthederm Photo Reverse Brightening Anti-Dark Spots Suncare Stick
Institut EsthedermPhoto Reverse Brightening Anti-Dark Spots Suncare Stick
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