Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Anti-oxidation
- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Product Summary
Judging from the ingredient list, "Institut Esthederm - Photo Reverse Brightening Anti-Dark Spots Cream-In-Stick" works well for improving skin hydration This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (artemia extract, carnosine, glycerin, mannitol and hydrolyzed soy protein) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Theobroma cacao seed butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, copernicia cerifera wax, ricinus communis seed oil and coco-caprylate/caprate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (hexapeptide-2 0.15% - 0.65%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Irritation risk
This product does not contain known common irritants and is suitable for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 58.00$ in the United States, for 73.50CA$ in Canada and for 42.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Moisturizing
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
artemia extract, carnosine.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, copernicia cerifera wax.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: hexapeptide-2
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
Brazilian palm wax. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing
Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Is used to dissolve other ingredients and create nice product texture
Anti-aging
This product contains carnosine, creatine, hexapeptide-2. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Photo Reverse Brightening Anti-Dark Spots Cream-In-Stick
Source: From product name
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: stearyl glycyrrhetinate.
A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 75/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Institut Esthederm Photo Reverse Brightening Anti-Dark Spots Cream-In-Stick | Current | $42.00 | |
 Beauty Rx Ultra Hydrating Eye Repair Cream | 38% | $95.00 | |
 LABIOTTE Aesthe RX Collagen Cream | 37% | $66.00 | |
TONYMOLY Retinol Red Radiance Cream | 37% | $49.00 | |
 GUERLAIN The Radiance Concentrate Youth Replenisher - Brightening | 34% | $640.00 | |
 endota spa Cellular Repair Face Cream | 33% | $125.00 |
Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Candelilla cera, Euphorbia cerifera wax, Candelilla cera, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Water, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Glycerin, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Ethylhexyl triazone, Corn starch modified, Copernicia cerifera cera, Copernicia cerifera wax, Ricinus communis seed oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Magnesium sulfate, Mannitol, Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, Stearalkonium hectorite, 1,2-hexanediol, Pentylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Sodium dextran sulfate, Propylene carbonate, Palmaria palmata extract, Maltodextrin, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Creatine, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Caprylyl glycol, Andrographis paniculata leaf extract, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan gum, Sodium citrate, Sodium chloride, Artemia extract, Citric acid, Aminoethanesulfinic acid, Carnosine, Potassium chloride, Sodium bicarbonate, Disodium phosphate, Potassium phosphate, Hexapeptide-2, Calcium chloride, Water
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuring
- Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate
- Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Production
- Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammation
- Safety Assessment of Magnesium Sulfate as Used in Cosmetics
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activity
- Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active components
- Safety Assessment of Soy Peptides as Used in Cosmetics
- Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjects
- Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivo
- The Creatine Kinase System in Human Skin: Protective Effects of Creatine Against Oxidative and UV Damage In Vitro and In Vivo
- Wheat in skin care
- The Effects of Purified Artemia Extract Proteins on Proliferation, Differentiation and Apoptosis of Human Leukemic HL-60 Cells
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products