PRODUCT REVIEW
Institut Esthederm Brightening Face Sun Protection SPF50+
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Sun protection
butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
1.6% -
2%
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.
homosalate
2.5% -
3.1%
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation
butyloctyl salicylate
0.95% -
1.15%
Irritation risk:
UVA I protection: UVA II protection: UVB protection: Photo stable: Ingredient type Organic
A synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its own
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Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Featuring high UVA/UVB protection, the cream protects hyper-pigmented skin against the visible signs of photo-ageing and the appearance of new pigmentation.
carnosine
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
creatine
0.4% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness
hexapeptide-2
0.1% -
0.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Enjoy the sun whilst visibly brightening and evening skin tone with Institut Esthederm Photo Reverse Lotion .
glycyrrhetinic acid
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
hydrolyzed soy protein
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Featuring high UVA/UVB protection, the cream protects hyper-pigmented skin against the visible signs of photo-ageing and the appearance of new pigmentation.
palmaria palmata extract
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
squalane
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
glycerin
2.4% -
3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Anti-oxidation
glycyrrhetinic acid
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
carnosine
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
creatine
0.4% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Sun protection | |
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
5.4% -
6.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating
propylene glycol
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
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Comodogenic ingredients
palmaria palmata extract
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
laminaria digitata extract
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
User reviews (0)
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| SPF | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 50 | SPF 40 | SPF 50 | SPF 30 | SPF 50 |
| Key ingredients |
| Common:
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
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LOW
| IRRITANCY
LOW
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LOW
| IRRITANCY
LOW
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
tocopherol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
glycyrrhetinic acid
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Evens skin tone
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
Show more
Potential irritants
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
5.4% -
6.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating
propylene glycol
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
palmaria palmata extract
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
laminaria digitata extract
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
All ingredients
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
5.4% -
6.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating
ethylhexyl methoxycrylene
4.4% -
5.4%
Irritation risk:
Helps improve stability of sunscreen filters and boost their effectiveness
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Ingredient list view
Water, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Glycerin, Homosalate, Tribehenin peg-20 esters, Styrene/acrylates copolymer, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Butyloctyl salicylate, Dipropylene glycol, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Caprylyl methicone, Tocopheryl acetate, Vp/eicosene copolymer, C20-22 alkyl phosphate, Creatine, Glyceryl stearate, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Mannitol, Peg-100 stearate, Pentylene glycol, Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, C20-22 alcohols, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Peg-8 laurate, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Cerium oxide, Butylene glycol, Xanthan gum, Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, Disodium edta, Sodium dextran sulfate, Squalane, Palmaria palmata extract, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Paraffinum liquidum, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate, Andrographis paniculata leaf extract, Sodium hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Propylene glycol, Aminoethanesulfinic acid, Silica, Bht, Carnosine, Artemia extract, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Laminaria digitata extract, Tocopherol, Ci 17200, Hexapeptide-2
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Opinion on Homosalate - Scientific Committee on Consumer Products
- Amended Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymers as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety assessment of Salicylic Acid, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Calcium Salicylate, C12-15 Alkyl Salicylate, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Hexyldodecyl Salicylate, Isocetyl Salicylate, Isodecyl Salicylate, Magnesium Salicylate, MEA-Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Potassium Salicylate, Methyl Salicylate, Myristyl Salicylate, Sodium Salicylate, TEA-Salicylate, and Tridecyl Salicylate
- Safety Assessment of Vinylpyrrolidone Polymers as Used in Cosmetics
- Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjects
- Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivo
- The Creatine Kinase System in Human Skin: Protective Effects of Creatine Against Oxidative and UV Damage In Vitro and In Vivo
- Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, can reduce the thickness of subcutaneous thigh fat through topical application
- Effects of topical application of B‐Resorcinol and Glycyrrhetinic acid monotherapy and in combination with fractional CO2 laser treatment for benign hand hyperpigmentation treatment
- 18β-Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glabridin Prevent Oxidative DNA Fragmentation in UVB-irradiated Human Keratinocyte Cultures
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activity
- Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active components
- Safety Assessment of Soy Peptides as Used in Cosmetics
- A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil
- Wheat in skin care
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products
- The Effects of Purified Artemia Extract Proteins on Proliferation, Differentiation and Apoptosis of Human Leukemic HL-60 Cells
- Vitamin E in dermatology