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Institut Esthederm Brightening Face Sun Protection SPF50+
Institut Esthederm

Institut Esthederm Brightening Face Sun Protection SPF50+

SPF 50Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium·5 UV filters
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Works for

4 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection
SPF 50 · 5 UV filters
Broad spectrum
SPF 50Broad spectrumChemical filtersNo white cast

This product offers a good level of protection against both UVB and UVA rays.

This sunscreen uses organic (so-called "chemical") sunscreen filters. Organic, or "chemical" filters usually provide reliable sun protection and rarely leave a white cast. Sunscreens with organic filters can sting eyes.

UV spectrum
UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm
Octinoxate
Octisalate
Homosalate
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Avobenzone
FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount
OctinoxateEthylhexyl MethoxycinnamateUVBOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating~5.4–6.6%
OctisalateEthylhexyl SalicylateUVBOctisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen~3.6–4.4%
HomosalateUVB Photo-stable A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation~2.5–3.1%
Butyloctyl SalicylateUVBA synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its own~0.95–1.15%
AvobenzoneButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneUVA1Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.~1.6–2%
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels
Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Featuring high UVA/UVB protection, the cream protects hyper-pigmented skin against the visible signs of photo-ageing and the appearance of new pigmentation.”
Source: Mankind

This product can help prevent early signs of skin aging because it offers a good level of broad spectrum sun protection. Sun damage is the main cause of premature skin aging, and protecting your skin from the sun is the best anti-aging strategy.

These ingredients in the product might also be helpful for reducing and preventing fine lines, wrinkles, and skin elasticity, even though there is no conclusive evidence for their effectiveness: carnosine, creatine, hexapeptide-2.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.4%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.4–0.65%
Hexapeptide-2Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.3%
Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Featuring high UVA/UVB protection, the cream protects hyper-pigmented skin against the visible signs of photo-ageing and the appearance of new pigmentation.”
Source: Mankind

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: artemia extract, carnosine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, caprylyl glycol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: hexapeptide-2

Palmaria palmata extractKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–3%
Artemia extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.4%
CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.4%
Hexapeptide-2HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%
MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.25–0.45%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.5%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~0.6–0.9%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.45–0.7%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.6%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Caprylyl methiconeEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin~0.5–0.75%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Paraffinum liquidumUnder-dosedEffect: HighMineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%
Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.3%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Evens skin tone
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Enjoy the sun whilst visibly brightening and evening skin tone with Institut Esthederm Photo Reverse Lotion .”
Source: Mankind

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection. It means that it can prevent hyperpigmentation and help keep the skin tone even (sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations).

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: MediumActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.3–0.6%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.5%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 9 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: HighActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.3–0.6%
CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.4%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.4–0.65%
Palmaria palmata extractEffect: LowRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Artemia extractEffect: LowZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.4%
Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.3%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.5–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
22 flagged ingredients
Medium risk
We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh~5.4–6.6%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Ethylhexyl methoxycryleneHelps improve stability of sunscreen filters and boost their effectivenessMedium~4.4–5.4%est.
HomosalateA weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~2.5–3.1%est.
Tribehenin peg-20 estersHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.7–2.1%est.
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~1.6–2%est.
Butyloctyl salicylateA synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its ownMedium~0.95–1.15%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
Vp/eicosene copolymerUsed to improve the product adherence to the skin, for example, to pro-long the protective effect of sunscreens. Can be irritating to very sensitive skinMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Peg-8 laurateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresolUsed to stabilize the product formulation protecting it from sun lightMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Ci 17200A red colorantMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Palmaria palmata extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.25–0.5%est.
Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.15–0.3%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate~5.4–6.6%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene~4.4–5.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps improve stability of sunscreen filters and boost their effectiveness

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene
Ethylhexyl salicylate~3.6–4.4%
UV filter
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate
Glycerin~2.4–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Homosalate~2.5–3.1%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not offer meaningful protection against protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen. When used in low concentrations, helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Homosalate
Tribehenin peg-20 esters~1.7–2.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Tribehenin peg-20 esters
Styrene/acrylates copolymer~1.4–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create an even product consistency. Can help boost efficiency of sunscreen filters

More about Styrene/acrylates copolymer
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~1.6–2%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Butyloctyl salicylate~0.95–1.15%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its own

More about Butyloctyl salicylate
Dipropylene glycol~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Dicaprylyl carbonate~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Caprylyl methicone~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin

More about Caprylyl methicone
Tocopheryl acetate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Vp/eicosene copolymer~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Used to improve the product adherence to the skin, for example, to pro-long the protective effect of sunscreens. Can be irritating to very sensitive skin

More about Vp/eicosene copolymer
C20-22 alkyl phosphate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about C20-22 alkyl phosphate
Creatine~0.4–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine
Glyceryl stearate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Glycyrrhetinic acid~0.3–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhetinic acid
Mannitol~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol
Peg-100 stearate~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Helps thicken the product consistency

More about Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer
C20-22 alcohols~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about C20-22 alcohols
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Peg-8 laurate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-8 laurate
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Cerium oxide~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cerium oxide
Butylene glycol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to stabilize the product formulation protecting it from sun light

More about Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol
Disodium edta~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Sodium dextran sulfate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium dextran sulfate
Squalane~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Palmaria palmata extract~0.25–0.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Palmaria palmata extract
Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein
Paraffinum liquidum~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function

More about Paraffinum liquidum
Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Andrographis paniculata leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Andrographis paniculata leaf extract
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Polysorbate 60~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Propylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Aminoethanesulfinic acid~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Aminoethanesulfinic acid
Silica~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Bht~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Carnosine~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Artemia extract~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Artemia extract
Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate
Laminaria digitata extract~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ci 17200~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A red colorant

More about Ci 17200
Hexapeptide-2~0.1–0.2%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Hexapeptide-2
Ingredient list view

Water, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Glycerin, Homosalate, Tribehenin peg-20 esters, Styrene/acrylates copolymer, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Butyloctyl salicylate, Dipropylene glycol, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Caprylyl methicone, Tocopheryl acetate, Vp/eicosene copolymer, C20-22 alkyl phosphate, Creatine, Glyceryl stearate, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Mannitol, Peg-100 stearate, Pentylene glycol, Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, C20-22 alcohols, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Peg-8 laurate, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Cerium oxide, Butylene glycol, Xanthan gum, Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, Disodium edta, Sodium dextran sulfate, Squalane, Palmaria palmata extract, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Paraffinum liquidum, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate, Andrographis paniculata leaf extract, Sodium hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Propylene glycol, Aminoethanesulfinic acid, Silica, Bht, Carnosine, Artemia extract, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Laminaria digitata extract, Tocopherol, Ci 17200, Hexapeptide-2

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Product summary

We assess that "Institut Esthederm - Brightening Face Sun Protection SPF50+" can provide reliable sun protection based on the ingredient list. It can protect from both UVA and UVB rays. This is great news because not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. (UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging).

Its formula is also hydrating, so you might not need an additional moistruizer during the day. Like all broad-spectrum sunscreens, this product has an anti-aging benefit.

Sunscreen filters

This is a so-called "chemical" sunscreen. It means that it uses organic UV filters. They typically offer good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for some people with sensitive skin. These are the sun protection ingredients in this sunscreen: avobenzone 1.60% - 2.00%, butyloctyl salicylate 0.95% - 1.15%, octinoxate 5.40% - 6.60%, octisalate 3.60% - 4.40% and homosalate 2.50% - 3.10%.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this product to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 56.00$ in the United States and from 56.00£ up to 57.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 24 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Opinion on Homosalate - Scientific Committee on Consumer Products ec.europa.eu
  3. 3
    Amended Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymers as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    Safety assessment of Salicylic Acid, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Calcium Salicylate, C12-15 Alkyl Salicylate, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Hexyldodecyl Salicylate, Isocetyl Salicylate, Isodecyl Salicylate, Magnesium Salicylate, MEA-Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Potassium Salicylate, Methyl Salicylate, Myristyl Salicylate, Sodium Salicylate, TEA-Salicylate, and Tridecyl Salicylatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Safety Assessment of Vinylpyrrolidone Polymers as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  6. 6
    Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjectsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Institut Esthederm Brightening Face Sun Protection SPF50+
Institut EsthedermBrightening Face Sun Protection SPF50+
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