Holika Holika Less On Skin Redness Calming CICA Balm

Holika Holika Less On Skin Redness Calming CICA Balm

Efficacy50/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
15 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Also enriched with Panthenol, the formula plumps the skin with moisture, revealing a radiant and supple complexion.”
Source: Mankind

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.2–1.7%
Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~0.15–0.7%
Ethylhexyl olivateKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.9–1.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–6.6%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.7–2.5%
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.75%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~1.3–1.9%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~3.4–5.1%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2–2.9%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.5%
Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.1–0.35%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~0.3–0.7%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.7%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.05–0.2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.6%
Anti-aging
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Enriched with Glycerin, the formula helps to support the skin’s natural regeneration processes, rebuilding and reinforcing the barriers to fill out the appearance of fine lines while smoothing the surface.”
Source: Mankind

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.6%
Evens skin tone
No ingredient credited for this claim
No support
What the product description says
“Supercharged with anti-inflammatory power, this innovative formula calms irritation and reduces redness, clarifying the complexion to reveal a more even tone and texture.”
Source: Mankind

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
13 flagged ingredients
Medium risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Eclipta prostrata extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Melia azadirachta leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.3%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~3.4–5.1%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~1.9–2.9%est.
Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.55–1.35%est.
Polyglyceryl-4 oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.15–0.7%est.
Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~0.15–0.7%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.01–0.05%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2–2.9%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–6.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Olea europaea fruit oil~3.4–5.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
1,2-hexanediol~1.9–2.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Cetearyl alcohol~2–2.9%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~1.7–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Panthenol~1.3–1.9%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Betaine~1.2–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Ethylhexyl olivate~0.9–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl olivate
Sodium acrylates copolymer~0.55–1.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer
Polyglyceryl-4 oleate~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-4 oleate
Cetearyl glucoside~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Centella asiatica extract~0.15–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Octyldodecanol~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Echium plantagineum seed oil~0.15–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~0.2–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables
Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties but evidence is missing

More about Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract
Tocopherol~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Butylene glycol~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Mineral salts~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicked product formulations. Might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin

More about Mineral salts
Magnesium sulfate~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Magnesium sulfate
Eclipta prostrata extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can be irritating

More about Eclipta prostrata extract
Melia azadirachta leaf extract~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating

More about Melia azadirachta leaf extract
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Biosaccharide gum-4~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps improve the product texture

More about Biosaccharide gum-4
Cellulose~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Can be used to help absorb oil as well as add volume and imporve texture of products.

More about Cellulose
Carbomer~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Tromethamine~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Allantoin~0.05–0.2%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces rednessReduces irritationExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium edta~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Olea europaea fruit oil, 1,2-hexanediol, Cetearyl alcohol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Panthenol, Betaine, Ethylhexyl olivate, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Cetearyl glucoside, Centella asiatica extract, Octyldodecanol, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Cardiospermum halicacabum flower/leaf/vine extract, Tocopherol, Butylene glycol, Mineral salts, Magnesium sulfate, Eclipta prostrata extract, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Biosaccharide gum-4, Cellulose, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium edta

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Holika HolikaLess On Skin Redness Calming CICA BalmYOUR PRODUCTBANOBAGIMilk Thistle Repair LotionPYUNKANG YULCalming Moisture Repair BalmNeutrogenaUltra Gentle Face and Body Daily Moisturizing Cream
Match—56%55%55%
Price$14.15$21.42+$7.27$12.25−$1.90$9.97−$4.18
Shared key ingredients—4 of 95 of 94 of 9
Key difference—NiacinamidePalmitoyl Tripeptide-5Vitamin E
Irritancy Medium Low Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Holika Holika - Less On Skin Redness Calming CICA Balm" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Holika Holika - Less On Skin Redness Calming CICA Balm ticks this box. Humectants in this product (panthenol, betaine, glycerin and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, helianthus annuus seed oil, cetearyl alcohol, olea europaea fruit oil and moringa oleifera seed oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • An effective concentration of Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 1.30% - 1.90%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e and allantoin

Irritation risk

There are actives in this product that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 28.95£ up to 31.85£ in the United Kingdom and for 14.15$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 29 studies and safety reviews.

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Holika Holika Less On Skin Redness Calming CICA Balm
Holika HolikaLess On Skin Redness Calming CICA Balm

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