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Holika Holika Aloe Soothing Essence 90% Emulsion
Holika Holika

Holika Holika Aloe Soothing Essence 90% Emulsion

Efficacy37/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride + 16 more
Works
What the product description says
“The moisturiser is enriched with polysaccharides of Aloe Vera, which create a hydrating barrier to reinforce the skin’s natural defences.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–5.7%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~3.5–5.3%
EctoinKey activeEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~1.3–2%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.4–0.95%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.55%
Laminaria japonica extractKey activeEffect: HighSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties~0.1–0.45%
Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.1–0.35%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.1–0.35%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.2%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.05–0.25%
Sesamum indicum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.05–0.3%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.7–2.6%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.5%
Portulaca oleracea extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.45%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.05–0.3%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.2–1.8%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.1%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.1–0.4%
Anti-blemish
Centella asiatica extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice + 1 more
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Aloe Vera possesses anti-bacterial properties, helping to prevent and heal blemishes, making this moisturiser great for acne-prone and sensitive skin types.”
Source: Lookfantastic

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Centella asiatica extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.55%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.2–1.8%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.1–0.4%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Centella asiatica extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice + 1 more
May help

This product contains centella asiatica extract. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.55%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.2–1.8%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.1%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Centella asiatica extract, Portulaca oleracea extract + 3 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (centella asiatica extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.55%
Portulaca oleracea extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.45%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~0.1–0.35%
Vitis vinifera seed oilEffect: LowA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.05–0.25%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Melissa officinalis leaf extract, Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Melissa officinalis leaf extractA plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~3.5–5.3%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~2.6–3.8%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~1.1–1.7%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~1.7–2.6%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~1.2–1.8%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.95–1.45%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.15–0.55%est.
Portulaca oleracea extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.05–0.3%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.01–0.05%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Laminaria japonica extractSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.1–0.45%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~3.8–5.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~3.5–5.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Methylpropanediol~2.6–3.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol
1,2-hexanediol~1.1–1.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~1.7–2.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Ectoin~1.3–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Ectoin
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~1.2–1.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~0.95–1.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
Cetearyl olivate~0.5–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Sorbitan olivate~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Butylene glycol~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Allantoin~0.1–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Melissa officinalis leaf extract~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Melissa officinalis leaf extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.15–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Portulaca oleracea extract~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Portulaca oleracea extract
Laminaria japonica extract~0.1–0.45%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Seaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Laminaria japonica extract
Dioscorea japonica root extract~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Dioscorea japonica root extract
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Carbomer~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Propanediol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Tromethamine~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Xylitol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.05–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Pentylene glycol~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Vitis vinifera seed oil~0.05–0.25%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Sesamum indicum seed oil~0.05–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Sesamum indicum seed oil
Oryza sativa bran oil~0.1–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil
Coix lacryma-jobi ma-yuen seed oil~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Coix lacryma-jobi ma-yuen seed oil
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.1–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Disodium edta~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Sodium benzoate~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Citric acid~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Tocopherol~0.05–0.1%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Parfum~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Ectoin, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Cetearyl olivate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Sorbitan olivate, Butylene glycol, Allantoin, Melissa officinalis leaf extract, Centella asiatica extract, Portulaca oleracea extract, Laminaria japonica extract, Dioscorea japonica root extract, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Xanthan gum, Carbomer, Propanediol, Tromethamine, Xylitol, Sodium hyaluronate, Pentylene glycol, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Sesamum indicum seed oil, Oryza sativa bran oil, Coix lacryma-jobi ma-yuen seed oil, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Disodium edta, Sodium benzoate, Citric acid, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Holika HolikaAloe Soothing Essence 90% EmulsionYOUR PRODUCTpreangeVit B5 EmulsionCetaphilPRO Moisturising Night CreamBentonDeep Green Tea Lotion
Match—40%39%39%
Price—$21.15$13.25$2.03
Shared key ingredients—3 of 114 of 114 of 11
Key difference—NiacinamideNiacinamideArginine
Irritancy Medium Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 24 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
  5. 5
    Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
Holika Holika Aloe Soothing Essence 90% Emulsion
Holika HolikaAloe Soothing Essence 90% Emulsion
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.