Helia-D Professional 3 Stem Cell Serum

Helia-D Professional 3 Stem Cell Serum

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Urea + 9 more
Works well
What the product description says
“It has a firming, anti-wrinkle and intense deep hydrating effect.”
Source: Helia-D

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": diglycerin, sodium pca.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol, urea

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.65–1%
UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.2–0.4%
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.55–0.85%
LysineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.25–0.5%
DiglycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.2%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~3.1–3.8%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.95–1.15%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.25–0.45%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.4–0.65%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.3–0.55%
Anti-aging
Lysine, Lactic acid
May help
What the product description says
“3 in 1 effect: Cell-renewal, firming and anti-wrinkle.”
Source: Helia-D

This product contains lysine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

LysineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Parfum, Citral + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Sodium laureth sulfateWorks as a foaming cleansing agentHigh~5.5–6.7%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~3.1–3.8%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
Hexyl cinnamalA fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritantHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.95–1.15%est.
Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.45–0.65%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Sodium laureth sulfateWorks as a foaming cleansing agent2/5~5.5–6.7%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Polyquaternium-11~5.5–6.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish

More about Polyquaternium-11
Sodium laureth sulfate~5.5–6.7%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Works as a foaming cleansing agent

More about Sodium laureth sulfate
Propylene glycol~3.1–3.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Wine~2.4–3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Wine
Propanediol~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Polysorbate 20~1.7–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Wine extract~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Wine extract
Cocamide dea~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Cocamide dea
Peg-8~0.95–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Panthenol~0.65–1%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.55–0.85%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Parfum~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Allantoin~0.4–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Disodium edta~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Tocopheryl acetate~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Potassium sorbate~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Xanthan gum~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ziziphus jujuba seed extract~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Citral~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Lactic acid~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Lysine~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Lysine
Sodium pca~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Sorbitol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Urea~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Hexyl cinnamal~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritant

More about Hexyl cinnamal
Sodium hydroxide~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Diglycerin~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Diglycerin
Phytoecdysteroids~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Citronellol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Citral~0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Geraniol~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Ingredient list view

Water, Polyquaternium-11, Sodium laureth sulfate, Propylene glycol, Wine, Propanediol, Polysorbate 20, Wine extract, Cocamide dea, Peg-8, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Sodium benzoate, Parfum, Allantoin, Disodium edta, Tocopheryl acetate, Potassium sorbate, Xanthan gum, Ziziphus jujuba seed extract, Citral, Lactic acid, Lysine, Sodium pca, Sorbitol, Urea, Hexyl cinnamal, Sodium hydroxide, Linalool, Diglycerin, Phytoecdysteroids, Citronellol, Citral, Geraniol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Helia-D Professional3 Stem Cell SerumYOUR PRODUCTMedik8Hydr8 B5 IntenseBABORLIFTING RX Lift Serumendota spaPeptide 8 Hyaluronic Serum
Match—57%53%51%
Price—$21.53—$126.40
Shared key ingredients—7 of 74 of 74 of 7
Key difference—Acetyl GlucosamineNiacinamideNiacinamide
Irritancy High Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Helia-D Professional 3 Stem Cell Serum
Helia-D Professional3 Stem Cell Serum

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